"The Upper Gorge section of Owens River Gorge offers a diverse climbing experience with cliffs facing multiple directions, allowing climbers to seek sun or shade throughout the day. Featuring solid moderate routes and challenging walls for advanced climbers, this area promises an engaging outing framed by unique rock formations and rugged terrain."
The Upper Gorge in California’s Owens River Gorge presents a climb that’s as dynamic in terrain as it is in atmosphere. Its narrower, winding cliffs create a varied playground where sunlight and shadow continuously shift, giving climbers the freedom to chase their preferred conditions throughout the day. Approaching the Gorge, you’ll find yourself hiking down the upper power plant road, spotting a well-marked trail descending steeply into a rocky gully. This transition from forested trail into rugged crag is a reminder that this climbing area demands attentiveness right from the access point. Keep an eye out for the large cairn that marks the correct path and steer clear of the loose scree and talus to avoid unnecessary risks.
Once at the heart of the Upper Gorge, the diversity of climbing options invites exploration. The cliffs face multiple directions, offering sun-dappled warm ups in the morning and cool shaded lines in the afternoon. Climbers seeking moderate routes will appreciate cliffs such as Gorgeous Towers and Flavin' Haven, which offer solid, enjoyable climbs with a friendly vibe that fits intermediate levels well. For those craving a more intense challenge, advancing climbers will want to test their mettle on the Trestle Wall, Holy Trinity, Joe’s Garage, and Franklin’s Tower — walls that demand stronger technique and mental focus.
Classic climbs in the area reinforce the Gorge’s reputation for quality. Whether you’re eyeing Slip 'n Slide (5.9) or pushing into the 5.11+ realm with routes like Pick Pocket and C'mon Knucko, the selection encourages progression and discovery. Each climb holds its own character, shaped by rugged rock formations and thoughtful protection opportunities. The ratings tend to be straightforward, making it an accessible yet stimulating destination without the frustration of sandbagged grades.
Beyond the vertical challenge, the Upper Gorge rests at an elevation of about 5,729 feet, surrounded by the Eastern Sierra’s vast natural backdrop. This context offers sweeping views and a sense of quiet isolation despite the area’s popularity. However, climbers should remain vigilant about ongoing access issues: recent removals of bridges have complicated river crossings, prompting local coalitions to negotiate solutions with LADWP. For now, respect closures and seek safe, alternative crossings. Practicing strong land stewardship is essential here — avoid overnight parking at access points, park carefully without blocking gates, clean up after pets, and pack out all trash and waste.
The protection quality at Upper Gorge favors traditional gear mixed with sport routes. Many routes feature bolts but having a rack that includes standard cams and nuts will cover the miscellaneous cracks and corners. This versatility allows climbers to adjust their approach according to their preferred style.
Planning your visit around the weather is wise. The cliffs’ varied orientations mean that you can climb comfortably from late spring through early fall, adjusting your start time to follow the sun or find shade. The trails are well-marked but expect a steep and somewhat rugged descent with third-class scrambling into the climbing zones. Rappelling options are route-dependent; some climbs require careful downclimbs or reversals, so knowing your exit strategy is critical.
Ultimately, the Upper Gorge is a compelling destination with routes that cater to a wide range of abilities, from moderate adventures to serious challenges. Its rugged terrain, shifting shade lines, and vibrant classic climbs create not just routes, but experiences shaped by California’s Eastern Sierra landscape. Approach with preparation, respect, and a readiness to engage both physically and mentally—and you’ll discover a climbing day here that rewards every careful move.
The steep access trail involves third-class scrambling; avoid areas with loose scree or talus without clear paths. Keep in mind the removal of several bridges which complicates river crossings. Always plan descent carefully as some routes require rappelling or cautious downclimbing.
Use the Upper Gorge parking lot as your starting point and follow the clear trail marked with a large cairn.
Avoid descending loose scree and talus where footsteps are faint to stay safe on the approach.
Respect bridge closures near river crossings and stay updated on LADWP negotiations for access.
Pack out all trash, use outhouses when available, and be mindful of overnight parking restrictions.
Routes include a mix of sport and traditional protection. Climbers should bring a standard rack with cams and nuts as well as quickdraws for bolted lines. The rock quality generally supports solid placements but remain vigilant where the route transitions into cracks and edges.
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