HomeClimbingUp From Despair

Up From Despair: A Bold Trad Climb in The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
thin crack
arete
single pitch
small gear
bolt anchors
forested approach
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Up From Despair
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Up From Despair offers a single, technical pitch of thin laybacking and subtle footwork on the dramatic arete of Upper Crag X. This route delivers focused trad challenges with accessible approach and solid protection—perfect for intermediate climbers sharpening their crack skills."

Up From Despair: A Bold Trad Climb in The Smoke Bluffs

Up From Despair challenges climbers to engage with a slender, curving dihedral etched along the right-most arete of Upper Crag X at The Smoke Bluffs. This one-pitch, 50-foot trad route demands precise laybacking skills and subtle foot placements, testing climbers with a blend of thin holds and delicate gear placements that require a calm, methodical approach. The path begins just off the new staircase on the Smoke Bluff Connector trail, about 100 feet from the main hiking route, making access swift and straightforward.

Climbing this route, you navigate a lean, arcing crack that threads the rock face with both elegance and grit. The thinness of the movements asks for quiet focus: each hand jam and toe smidge carries weight, while carefully placed small nuts and cams ensure secure protection in the tighter-fitting placements. Above, the bolted anchors provide a reassuring finish after the steady, sometimes demanding moves.

The surrounding environment begins as a bright, sunlit rock face that in the warmth of the afternoon invites climbers to test their strengths. The Smoke Bluffs is known for its rugged granite surfaces and ecological vibrancy, where the forest breathes just steps away from the rock. Approaching the climb, expect a short, well-marked trail that threads hillside foothills, offering clear views of the Indian Arm inlet and neighboring peaks.

For anyone aiming to send Up From Despair, preparation is key. Good finger strength and advanced footwork will expedite the climb, but equal attention should be given to bringing small-sized gear. The rock’s protectability is good but selective; solid placements demand patience and precision. Timing your attempt during late spring through early fall will provide the most stable drying conditions as moisture and cold can tighten friction and increase difficulty.

The route’s rating of 5.10c reflects a moderately stiff challenge that pushes the limits of thin crack climbing. Climbers familiar with the area will find this climb comparable to other demanding routes in The Smoke Bluffs with its technical, sometimes physical cruxes, but without excessive length or commitment. This makes it a worthwhile test piece for intermediate to advanced trad climbers seeking a focused dose of movement on granite.

Once at the top, the descent is straightforward: a single rappel down from bolted anchors or a careful walk off on easy terrain if conditions permit. Keep in mind the approach and descent demand awareness of loose rock and hikers crossing.

In all, Up From Despair presents a compelling mix of focused technique, bold protection strategy, and quick access amid one of Canada's most cherished climbing destinations. Whether looking to sharpen trad skills or extend your repertoire on thin cracks, this route offers tangible rewards and a genuine connection to the rock.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the start and anchor areas. The route’s thin crack can make gear tricky—place carefully to avoid pull-outs. The rappel anchors are fixed but be mindful of rope drag and nearby foot traffic on the descent path.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-exposed rock.

Focus on precision with small gear placements; forceful protection can be unreliable here.

Wear sticky rubber shoes to optimize grip on thin edges.

Check weather forecasts to avoid damp or icy conditions that reduce friction.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating feels true to its reputation, with a distinctly technical crux demanding clean footwork and confident laybacking. While not overly long, the route forces focused effort in gear placements that can bump the difficulty slightly if protection is uncertain. Climbers familiar with local Smoke Bluffs classics will recognize this as a solid test of their crack climbing finesse.

Gear Requirements

Bring a set of small nuts and small cams for reliable placements in the thin dihedral. The route finishes with bolt anchors suitable for a confident rap descent.

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Tags

thin crack
arete
single pitch
small gear
bolt anchors
forested approach