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Unsafe and Not Excalibur: A Cautionary Tale from El Potrero Chico

El Potrero Chico, Nuevo Leon Mexico
bolt protected
loose rock
runout
multi-pitch
desert climbing
dangerous
helmet recommended
Length: 450 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Unsafe and Not Excalibur
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A deceptive climb in El Potrero Chico’s Ivory Tower sector, this route challenges more than technique—it tests judgment and caution. Experienced climbers encounter unreliable rock and sparse protection that have pushed many to turn away mid-ascent."

Unsafe and Not Excalibur: A Cautionary Tale from El Potrero Chico

Carved into the northern Mexican cliffs of El Potrero Chico, the route labeled 'Unsafe and Not Excalibur' waits as a stark reminder of climbing risks when preparation and reliable information fall short. Situated within the towering walls of Ivory Tower on El Toro’s front face, this 450-foot sport climb unfolds across five pitches, but climbers venturing here quickly discover that not all vertical lines are equal—and some demand respect for their instability rather than their challenge.

Unlike the legitimate Excalibur nearby, this unvetted route was established in early 2020 without the clarity or approval that seasoned climbers rely on. From the first moments of ascending, attention is drawn not to the exhilaration of the climb but to the treacherous reality beneath each handhold and foothold. Pitches two and three develop a reputation steeped in uncertainty: loose rock, sparse protection, and bolts that offer little reassurance beyond their existence. Experienced climbers report that the upper sections morph into a precarious dance on chossy ledges, with vegetation-laden pockets primed to shed debris onto those below.

The route’s 5.10c R rating reflects not pure technical difficulty but the added consequence of runouts and questionable gear placements. Falls here carry a heavier threat because of the loose stone and the heightened potential for rockfall. Nearly a dozen climbers recount turning back mid-route, their instincts fueled by the palpable unease triggered by failing holds and the unpredictable rock quality. Unlike typical El Potrero routes, famed for their solid limestone and confident clipping stances, this climb demands a hard look at risk over reward.

El Potrero Chico itself is a celebrated destination on the international climbing map, offering walls that challenge and inspire thousands every year. Ivory Tower is part of this vast playground, with routes that span a spectrum of styles and grades, but "Unsafe and Not Excalibur" stands apart as a cautionary corridor. The setting invites climbers to embrace vast desert skies, the crisp air carrying distant bird calls and the faint rustle of desert foliage responding to light breezes. Yet the beauty of the landscape contrasts sharply with this route’s dubious safety.

Preparation before attempting any El Potrero climbs often involves scouting, local beta gathering, and careful gear selection—here, these steps become critical. Bolts are present but sparse, and the protection relies heavily on fixed anchors that have not been maintained or cleaned. The route’s loose rock can undermine the security offered by these bolts, and additional caution is essential. Climbers planning to challenge pitches two and three should anticipate the possibility of retreat. Good rock shoes are mandatory for sensitivity, but even the best footwork can’t fully mitigate the hazards of unpredictable rockfall or crumbling edges.

Best approached in the cooler months to reduce heat stress, Ivory Tower’s aspect means that early morning starts provide the most stable climbing conditions before the sun fully warms the wall. The approach itself is moderate, crossing desert brush and solid paths that lead to clear base points with GPS coordinates facilitating easy navigation. Yet, the sense of remoteness lingers; help is distant, and self-reliance is essential.

This route is an example of why verifiable information, community validation, and consistent maintenance cannot be overlooked. For those seeking an adventurous challenge in El Potrero Chico, there are many well-established lines that balance thrilling climbing with dependable protection. "Unsafe and Not Excalibur" functions as a warning: excitement without prudence can quickly become a dangerous gamble. When tackling any unfamiliar climb, especially in this region, thorough research, respect for local updates, and readiness to turn back when conditions collapse into uncertainty are vital parts of a safe outing.

Climber Safety

Proceed with extreme caution—rockfall hazards are active, especially on the middle pitches where dirt and vegetation cling to fragile ledges. Many holds have recently broken, so falling debris poses a serious threat to both lead and second climbers. A helmet is mandatory, and route familiarity before ascent is vital to avoid dangerous situations.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches5
Length450 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday heat on the sun-exposed wall.

Do not attempt this climb without up-to-date beta; conditions remain unstable.

Wear a helmet at all times due to ongoing rockfall risk.

Be prepared to retreat on pitches two and three where rock quality deteriorates.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c R
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10c R, this climb’s grade signals not only technical demands but added risk from sparse protection and unstable rock. The rating feels stiff given that safety is compromised, making the climb more mentally challenging than purely physical. Comparable sport routes nearby tend to offer more secure bolts and cleaner rock, making this one an outlier due to its runout sections and loose holds.

Gear Requirements

This route is equipped with bolts, but coverage is limited and some fixed gear remains dirty or compromised. Loose rock demands good rock shoes for tactile footing and confidence in gear placements. Bringing standard sport climbing gear is essential, but be prepared for runouts and tricky protection on pitches two and three.

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Tags

bolt protected
loose rock
runout
multi-pitch
desert climbing
dangerous
helmet recommended