5.10+, Sport
Squamish
British Columbia ,Canada
"This short but technical bolted slab to the right of the Stumps crack tests delicate balance and finger strength. Ideal for climbers honing slab skills, it offers a crux above the second bolt and a subtle crack option that shifts the challenge."
Situated just to the right of the well-known Stumps crack, this unnamed bolted line offers a compact yet demanding climb that challenges both balance and finger strength. The route stretches over 45 feet of smooth, thin slab punctuated by three bolts that guide you upward along the face’s subtle contours. The real test begins after the second bolt, where delicate moves across the slab push you toward a narrow crack feature that slices cleanly through the rock. This thin crack serves as an alternate path for those who prefer to stray slightly from the bolts, offering a tactile variation that can either amplify the difficulty or relieve it, depending on your technique and body positioning.
Above this section, the route opens into a more welcoming xenolithic zone, where climbing eases and offers a chance to shake out and prepare for the final moves. Although brief, the climb demands attention to footwork and balance, as the slab’s friction is moderate and the holds are often slim, rewarding precise placement. The route earns a solid 5.10+ rating, though the grade fluctuates based on whether you stick strictly to the bolts or integrate the crack into your ascent.
Accessing the climb means arriving in the heart of The Smoke Bluffs, a renowned bouldering and sport climbing area just outside Squamish, British Columbia. The granite here is sharp and textured, providing reliable friction but calling for attentive footwork and steady breathing. Climbers can expect a short approach through forested paths that open into a sunlit cliff band, perfect in spring and fall when temperatures keep your grip fresh without overheating.
As a single-pitch sport route of moderate length, this climb suits intermediate climbers looking to sharpen slab technique and explore subtle variations in line. The fixed three-bolt protection makes the route straightforward to clip, but because the bolts are spaced unevenly with a crux positioned between the second and third bolt, maintaining composure through the thinner moves is key.
Whether you approach the climb aiming to test slab finesse or to experiment with the crack’s tricky edge, be prepared with sticky shoes that can handle slippery micro-edges and tape if you tend to get scraped by the rock’s rough texture. The descent is a simple walk-off along trails that link back easily to the parking area, making this an accessible afternoon outing. This bolted route invites climbers who appreciate technical climbing on clean granite with just enough challenge to push beyond the basics without committing to a longer route.
While the three bolts provide secure protection, the slab can feel slippery when damp or dusty. Take care on the delicate moves near the second bolt and ensure your shoes have excellent traction. The approach trail is well-defined but watch for loose gravel near the base.
Sticky rubber shoes will improve footing on the slabby granite.
Tape your fingers to protect against sharp edges near the crack.
Aim for morning or late afternoon to avoid intense mid-day sun on the slab.
Approach via the main Smoke Bluffs trailhead; parking can fill up on weekends.
Three fixed bolts protect the climb. Be ready for thin slab moves around the second bolt and optional crack use on the right, which shifts the climbing style and difficulty.
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