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Undercling Right at Little Twin Owls

Estes Park, Colorado United States
undercling
crack climbing
single pitch
trad rack
colorado granite
Lumpy Ridge
established route
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Undercling Right
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Undercling Right offers a crisp 70-foot trad climb on Lumpy Ridge’s north Little Twin Owls. Featuring a zig-zag crack that tests your undercling and jam skills, this route provides multiple beta options for varied climbers, set against the rugged Colorado high country."

Undercling Right at Little Twin Owls

Undercling Right is a compact but rewarding trad climb perched on the north face of Little Twin Owls, within the dramatic granite walls of Lumpy Ridge near Estes Park, Colorado. This 70-foot single pitch route threads a zig-zag crack that sits just to the right of the broader, more obvious wide crack, giving climbers a direct connection with the rock’s intricate texture and subtle undercling moves. The climb starts either at the base, engaging a 5.9 undercling and jam sequence that demands steady technique and body tension, or higher up via a thin crack off a comfortable ramp, rated around 5.8, allowing some variation depending on your approach and skill level.

The granite here feels alive under your fingertips; firm edges and crystalline seams offer solid holds while the rock’s cool surface invites focused footwork. From the ground, the climb challenges the balance between strength and finesse — the undercling section asks you to resist the pull of gravity, the crack beckons with thin jams and delicate placements. This line has multiple beta options, reflecting the diverse climbing perspectives from local experts. S. Kimball’s guidebook takes a more moderate 5.8 route starting at the neighboring Knee Catcher crack, while R. Rossiter’s notes highlight the adjacent Flake route at 5.8+ and a challenging thin seam variation to the right. Meanwhile, B. Gillett’s version ramps up the difficulty to a sustained 5.9+ by sticking to the zig-zag crack itself.

Protection is straightforward here — a light rack capped at a #2 Friend is usually sufficient, but careful placement is vital. The crack’s angles require precision, with some sections needing slightly smaller gear to ride the bends smoothly. This route, in the Lumpy Ridge climbing area, offers a solid introduction to technical crack climbing without committing to long, intimidating walls. The approach to Little Twin Owls is relatively short and scenic, wandering through pine-scented woodland with views opening up as you near the base, where the rock’s sunlit textures invite exploration.

The area bustles with fresh alpine air and the subtle chorus of wind shifting through the pines, while distant peaks draw your gaze frequently upward, reminding you of the wild terrain that envelops this pocket of Colorado rock. If you time your climb for early morning or late afternoon, the sunlight will paint soft shadows on the crack features, helping you read the line more clearly and avoid overheating during the effort.

Undercling Right suits climbers wanting a technical single-pitch trad climb with multiple variations, offering a taste of Lumpy Ridge’s classic granite climbing. The short route lends itself well to cooler days or as a warm-up before exploring the longer walls nearby. Prepare with snug climbing shoes, bring a rack focused on smaller cams, and pack plenty of hydration for the moderately exposed approach trail. Leave no gear unattended and ensure solid anchors for a safe descent — rappel or downclimb carefully from the top, mindful of loose rock and potential through traffic from other climbers.

Whether you’re stepping into your first crack or honing your trad technique, this route crafts a clear path into the rock’s pulse, balancing challenge with accessibility in a stunning mountain setting.

Climber Safety

Watch your step on the approach trail, which can be uneven and rocky. On the route, protect placements need focus, as some sections are narrow and tricky. Be cautious of loose rock near the top and ensure your anchor is solid before starting the descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the well-marked trail through pine forest; plan 20-30 minutes from the Lumpy Ridge trailhead.

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed rock faces.

Use sticky, well-fitting shoes to navigate the thin cracks and underclings smoothly.

Double-check anchor placements before descent — some bolts are limited; be prepared for a controlled rappel or downclimb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating here sits on the approachable but technical side, with a crux that tests sustained undercling strength and precise crack jams. The grade feels fair, though climbers new to this style may find it challenging until comfortable with finger cracks and body positioning. Alternative starting points lower the difficulty locally, offering softer options to build confidence before committing to the full line.

Gear Requirements

Bring a lightweight traditional rack with protection sizing up to a #2 Friend. Precision in gear placement is key due to the varying crack widths and angles.

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Tags

undercling
crack climbing
single pitch
trad rack
colorado granite
Lumpy Ridge
established route