HomeClimbingTwo Stone Wipe

Two Stone Wipe: A Smart Warm-Up on Toxic Waste Wall

Santa Barbara, California United States
face climb
crack protection
runout sections
warm-up route
thin crimps
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Two Stone Wipe
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A perfect warm-up nestled between tougher neighbors on Toxic Waste Wall, Two Stone Wipe challenges climbers with a mix of easy face moves and a calculated 5.9- crux. Expect a modest but technical climb with runouts that teach steady gear placement and precise footwork."

Two Stone Wipe: A Smart Warm-Up on Toxic Waste Wall

Two Stone Wipe sits quietly between the Chemical Warfare and The Crockostimpy routes on Santa Barbara’s Toxic Waste Wall, offering a practical yet engaging climb for those looking to start easy and build into moderate difficulty. At 45 feet, this single-pitch sport climb invites you to tackle straightforward 5.6 and 5.7 moves at the base, where grainy holds form a pod that challenges both footwork and balance. As you reach upward to the diagonal crack and flake that crown this route, the final crux — a thin but deliberate 5.9- move — demands focus and finesse, rewarding careful body positioning and steady breathing.

The route’s face to the left of the pod presents an alternative challenge: a thin crimpy sequence that nudges the difficulty to 10c for those seeking a sharper edge. By contrast, threading the crack line fully on the left softens the grade to an accessible 5.7, perfect for testing gear placements and maintaining controlled movement. Protection relies mostly on four bolts spaced farther apart between the second and third anchors, so cautious climbers will find comfort in placing an orange TCU midway and a #1 Camalot tucked carefully in the upper flake crack.

This climb serves both as an approachable warm-up and a practice ground for managing runouts and delicate moves, set in an area where exposure is balanced by the familiarity of rock texture and reliable anchors. The chain rappel station perched to the left offers a clean and quick descent, meaning you can safely retreat and regroup before heading out to more demanding climbs.

Timing your ascent here is best in mild weather; the wall’s orientation catches enough sun to keep the rock dry but offers shade during the afternoon, keeping conditions pleasant through spring and fall. The approach is short and involves a brief hike from the established trailhead in the Gibraltar Area of Santa Barbara’s Central Coast, with stable footing on a rocky path and clear signage guiding the way. Remember to bring climbing shoes with good edging capability for the thin crimps and a full rack including small cams and locking draws to navigate the runouts smoothly.

Overall, Two Stone Wipe is a route that invites steady progress and calm confidence. It’s well suited for climbers who want to warm up on technical face holds while practicing piece-by-piece protection placements, all within striking distance of some of the Central Coast’s more intimidating sport climbs. The climb’s measured challenge and accessible length make it an ideal addition to any day of mixed-level climbing in the region, allowing paddlers to transition between adventures with a manageable but satisfying climbing fix.

Climber Safety

Watch for runouts between the second and third bolt; placing gear in the diagonal crack significantly improves confidence. The top anchors are solid but ensure you clip carefully and use the chain rappel station correctly to avoid rope drag.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the wall and keep rock dry.

Bring small cams and TCUs for protecting fragile runout sections.

Focus on foot placement in the grainy pod to conserve energy for the crux.

Use the chain rap station on the left for a smooth and quick descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grade here leans a little soft for stronger climbers but is realistic given the technical nature of the crux moves. The runouts between bolts encourage precise gear placement, making protection an important factor in the climb’s challenge. Compared to other Central Coast sport climbs, this route is a practical step below more sustained 5.10 lines, ideal for acclimation.

Gear Requirements

The route features four bolts with slight runouts between the second and third bolt. For added security, bring an orange TCU and a #1 Camalot to protect the flake crack near the top. Fixed chain anchors are available for a safe rappel.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Two Stone Wipe and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

face climb
crack protection
runout sections
warm-up route
thin crimps