"Twisted offers a raw chimney climb just right of a popular Boulder Canyon classic. Its rough texture and challenging protection create a gritty, tactical experience perfect for climbers seeking an authentic chimney pitch with a demanding crux near the top."
Twisted stands out as a gritty, one-pitch climb tucked into Boulder Canyon's Bihedral Area, offering a chimney experience that tests both your technical skill and mental focus. This route demands your attention from the very first move, as the chimney’s rough-textured walls press inward with a physical presence that feels almost confrontational. Comparable to the chimney pitches of Orange Julius and Casual Route, Twisted draws you in with its compact line and a progressively challenging sequence that culminates in a crux near the top—where protection thins and the awkward, less-secure rock requires controlled precision.
Approaching this climb, you’ll find the obvious chimney positioned just right of the well-known What's Wrong With Parents Today, an established route offering a breathable vantage point for top-rope or rappelling. The initial section of the chimney invites you to place solid cams deep into the back, providing reassuring but deliberate protection. As you move upward, the crack system behind the face becomes your primary hold zone, contrasting with less stable handholds that dare you not to linger. The route’s signature feature is this dual character—solid protection in the lower chimney, shifting into looser, tricky movements on less secure rock toward the summit.
Climbing Twisted means preparing for a physically demanding chimney climb combined with mental stamina to navigate its quirky, uneven groove. Many of the holds—especially near the top—creak under pressure, demanding precise body positioning and calculated trust. While the grade sits at 5.9- PG13, the route’s protection challenges and the rough, sometimes unpredictable rock texture bump the perceived difficulty, especially for those new to chimney climbing or Boulder’s particular granite features.
Boulder's dry mountain air, cool mornings, and mid-afternoon sun make spring through fall the ideal window to tackle this route. Pack durable climbing gloves and tape to protect your hands from the abrasive stone, and come ready for a quick yet tactical climb. The descent is straightforward: rappel off bolted anchors on What's Wrong With Parents Today, a convenient and safe way down that avoids loose rock zones below. Whether you’re rounding out a day or seeking a slightly off-the-beaten-path chimney, Twisted offers a gritty, authentic slice of Boulder climbing.
Gear-wise, this line demands a well-rounded rack, including cams up to #4 Camalot and various wires for nuanced placements. Some climbers also bring a #4 Big Bro for added security. The chimney’s backs and cracks invite deep gear placement, but above the crux, protection becomes more sparse and requires prudent decisions. Soft rock near the top means steady, mindful movement is key—not just brute strength.
While it lacks the polish of Boulder’s classic flashy sport lines, Twisted’s character lies in its raw, hands-in-the-granite feel—the route dares you in ways that polished walls don’t. If you appreciate rugged routes and aren’t afraid to adapt mid-climb, this chimney will reward you with a genuine sense of accomplishment. As a final note, avoid bringing anything delicate or easily stained, as the rock scuffs dramatically. Twisted won’t pamper you, but it will give you a memorable, full-bodied chimney experience in one of Colorado’s most active climbing hubs.
Creaky holds near the top combined with less reliable protection require careful movement and gear placement. Don’t rush the crux and remain mindful of the abrasive rock, which can easily betray overconfidence.
Avoid bringing delicate clothing; the rock is rough and will snag gear or fabric.
Start early to benefit from cool morning temperatures and firmer rock.
Rappel off the bolts on What’s Wrong With Parents Today for a safe descent.
Use tape or gloves to protect your hands from abrasive chimney walls.
Be prepared with a full rack including cams up to #4 Camalot and wires; a #4 Big Bro can offer extra security. Protection is solid in the lower chimney but gets sparse above the crux, so place thoughtfully.
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