HomeClimbingTweaky Face (The New Version)

Tweaky Face (The New Version)

Powell River, Canada
technical
single pitch
long draws recommended
fresh bolts
Powell River
sport climbing
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Tweaky Face (The New Version)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tweaky Face (The New Version) challenges climbers with a fresh, technical sequence on a single pitch, emphasizing movement precision and smart gear management. This route is perfect for those eager to test finesse on newly rebolted terrain in Higgyland's wild coastal landscape."

Tweaky Face (The New Version)

Tweaky Face (The New Version) redefines the sport climbing experience at Hig's Zone, embracing a fresh and challenging route born from the fall of old holds and the birth of new possibilities. This single-pitch climb invites adventurers into a technical dance on vertical terrain, where movement demands precision and strategy. The route’s lower half features a sequence unlike before—sharp, engaging, with a rhythm that forces you to read the rock carefully. Each hold, now reinvigorated with fresh bolt placements, offers new challenges that reward thoughtful body positioning and controlled power.

Set against the backdrop of Higgyland's rugged façade, the climbing route twists through a path that zigzags between bolts, requiring longer draws or slings to keep your gear tidy and efficient while cleaning. The fresh bolts reflect a commitment to safety and style, ensuring that while the moves test you physically and mentally, your protection remains reliable.

Approaching Tweaky Face places you in the heart of Powell River’s wild beauty, where the Pacific Northwest’s coastal temperate rainforest breathes life into the rock face. Moisture-laden air hums through firs and cedars, and the sound of distant waves or bird calls punctuate the quiet moments spent studying your next move. Setting off early improves your chances of dry, grippy rock, especially during warmer months when the climb can fully warm in the sun by mid-morning.

For climbers aiming to send, maintaining awareness of the route’s protection is crucial. The route’s 8 bolts are spaced thoughtfully for sustained movement, but the stretches between the third and fourth bolts demand careful sling or long draw placement to avoid rope drag. This small technicality can easily become an efficiency bottleneck if overlooked.

Tweaky Face (The New Version) stands out for those who savor a blend of technical sport climbing with a touch of problem-solving engagement. While the 5.10d grade suggests a solid challenge, the route’s movements require finesse more than raw strength, making it a rewarding climb for those who appreciate fluidity over brute force.

Practical preparation is key. A rack of medium to long draws will keep your rope management smooth, and brushing up on technical footwork will pay dividends. The crux is demanding but fair, offering a sense of accomplishment with each correctly executed move. Climbers are advised to approach with moderate to advanced skill, ready to untangle the route’s subtle complexities without overstressing the body.

Beyond the physical climb, the surrounding Higgyland area provides an inviting wilderness setting where the adventure begins at the approach and extends past summit moments. Taking time to absorb the environment makes the route a complete outing that stretches beyond climbing alone; the air is cool with salty notes, the forest floor soft with moss, and the entire experience pulses with nature’s untamed, raw energy.

This is climbing with a pulse—direct, engaging, and honest—a route that respects your effort and sharpens your skills with every reach and smear.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention to the bolt spacing around the mid-route section; using long draws or slings is essential to avoid rope drag that can catch you off guard. The rock is solid post-rebolting, but still test holds as some remain newly formed and may feel less familiar.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Bring extra long draws or slings for the tricky sections between bolts three and four.

Start early in the day for the best dry rock and optimal sun exposure.

Brush the holds carefully before climbing to maintain good friction.

Approach with technical footwork, as the crux relies on precision more than brute force.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, Tweaky Face (The New Version) feels appropriately challenging with a sequence that tests movement fluidity and strength in equal measure. The grade sits true to the standard, but the unique bolt spacing adds a mental layer requiring good rope management skills. Compared to nearby sport routes, this climb leans more towards technical finesse than raw power, offering a rewarding challenge for climbers comfortable at this grade.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by 8 bolts, with the third and fourth bolts spaced widely enough to recommend long draws or slings to reduce rope drag during climbs and cleaning.

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Tags

technical
single pitch
long draws recommended
fresh bolts
Powell River
sport climbing