Adventure Collective

Trinity on The Matrix at McQuirks Mountain

Miramichi, Canada
crack climbing
single pitch
trad
forest setting
rappel
easy trad
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Trinity
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Trinity on The Matrix offers a straightforward trad climb up a series of natural cracks near McQuirks Mountain. With a single pitch stretching 90 feet, this route balances approachable crack climbing with a calm forest setting—perfect for climbers refining their technique in a quiet yet striking landscape."

Trinity on The Matrix at McQuirks Mountain

Trinity offers a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to trad climbing in the rugged expanse of The Matrix on McQuirks Mountain, New Brunswick. This single-pitch, 90-foot route presses you directly onto the rock face just to the left of a small cedar tree standing guard before the massive spruce nearby. The climb traces up a sequence of cracks that challenge you to read the natural line, balancing careful footwork with hands jammed into the finger and hand-sized fissures. As the route arcs right onto a broad ramp, the terrain eases while providing a sweeping vantage point over the fir and spruce forest below. At the top, transitioning onto the shared ledge with the neighboring Morpheus climb invites a moment to breathe in the quiet isolation and fresh northern air. For those seeking a tad more engagement, a steeper, direct finish ripples upward beside the large spruce, rated at 5.8 and demanding tighter gear placements along smaller cracks.

The protection is straightforward: a single rack up to 3 inches covers the crack sizes, with placements that feel secure but require mindful judgment near the ramp transition. A bolted rappel station crowns the route, allowing for a swift and safe descent. The approach to The Matrix is accessible yet remote enough to feel like an escape; hikers tread through mixed hardwood stands and uneven terrain over roughly 30 minutes before the rock face comes into view. The wall itself holds the cool shade through much of the afternoon, perfect for climbing in milder weather or summer heat. Timing your climb in the morning may bring crisp air and dappled sunlight that energizes the fingers.

Trinity’s ease on the rating scale makes it an excellent choice for climbers eager to consolidate crack climbing fundamentals without losing the thrill of navigating natural rock features. The route’s moderate length also fits neatly into a day trip, giving time for multiple ascents or exploring adjacent lines in the area. Whether you’re brushing up on crack jams or hunting for a low-key adventure in a lesser-traveled corner of New Brunswick, Trinity invites you to engage with the rock honestly and enjoy the calming forest backdrop that holds fast around McQuirks Mountain.

Climber Safety

Watch your gear placements near the ramp transition as cracks widen and tighten irregularly, requiring attentive jam technique. The rappel station is bolted but demands proper rigging with double ropes to safely descend. Keep an eye on weather as rock can become slick in damp conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is uneven and forested; sturdy boots and trekking poles help with footing.

Start climbs in the cooler morning to avoid warm afternoon rock heat.

Bring a well-rounded rack up to 3 inches, plus smaller cams for the harder direct finish.

Bolted rappel anchor requires a double rope for rappelling safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.5
Quality
Consensus:The 5.5 grade applies cleanly here, offering a relaxed introduction to crack climbing. The move sequence flows steadily, with no hidden cruxes, though the right-trending ramp demands careful foot placements. The direct finish rated at 5.8 increases difficulty through tighter gear placements and steeper moves, adding a more committing option for intermediate climbers.

Gear Requirements

A single rack up to 3-inch cams provides solid protection throughout the cracks. Small gear is necessary for the optional 5.8 direct finish. The route ends with a bolted rappel station, making descent straightforward and safe.

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Tags

crack climbing
single pitch
trad
forest setting
rappel
easy trad