"Tres Frijoles climbs a commanding vertical crack system on Pinto Wall, offering four pitches of moderate alpine tradition climbing. Its blend of technical crack work and steady face climbing makes it a solid choice for climbers seeking a balanced introduction to Sequoia's granite."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park, Tres Frijoles offers a grounded yet adventurous trad climbing experience on the storied walls of Pinto Wall. The route springs confidently from a prominent vertical crack system that demands focus and a steady hand from the first pitch. As you step into the short, left-facing corner at the base, the rock presents a textured invitation—rough granite with a solid personality, hinting at the enduring challenges above. The climbing flow rises through a 30-meter pitch graded 5.8-, pushing gently into the technical, with the crack demanding clean hand and foot placements. Reaching one of two ledges, climbers find a moment’s pause while surveying the next section.
Pitch two leads you along the crack beyond a bulge, easing to a 5.7 grade over 60 meters. This stretch feels like a quieter conversation between climber and stone, where rhythm and balance trump brute strength. Approaching the belay ledge, solid stances allow an essential moment to refresh and prepare for the sustained moves ahead.
The third pitch shifts gear with a move up and left through easier cracks, followed by thinner, more vertical fissures climbing toward a large left-facing corner. This 60-meter pitch, rated 5.6, gives climbers space to breathe while navigating the natural features of the rock. The corner itself provides a pronounced line with a bit of rubble on the ledge—a reminder to stay vigilant and maintain clean gear placements.
The final pitch carries the trad traveler through the left-facing corner for 30 feet before traversing left onto a steepening face. The 5.6 terrain rises steadily, testing control and footwork as you push toward the top ridgeline. Completed by a short scramble of roughly 40 vertical feet, this final section rewards with expansive views of the canyon below and a sense of accomplishment rooted in skillful movement over granite.
Gear-wise, a standard rack doubled from green to purple Camalots is ideal—essential for secure protection on the vertical cracks and tricky placements around the bulge. The climb's alpine character, combined with a well-defined crack system and moderate grades, makes it exceptionally approachable for trad climbers looking to sharpen their crack techniques while exploring the wild, less-trafficked side of the park.
The approach begins with a hike into Cliff Creek Canyon, where the trail crosses forested slopes and jagged granite boulders, putting the heart in a ready rhythm. A clear starting point at the impressive Pinto Wall crack system helps route-finding on this less crowded climb. Time your ascent to avoid afternoon heat, as the wall tends to bake under the California sun, making early starts preferable.
Safety considerations include stable rock quality overall, but the rubble on the third ledge and steeper face sections requires careful attention to foot placement and gear security. A patient approach to protection and cautious moves through the bulge will keep risk low. On descent, scrambling off the top requires steady footing, as loose rock can catch those unprepared.
In all, Tres Frijoles is a dependable alpine climb where the granite’s raw angles and cracks speak clearly to you. It’s a route that nurtures skill, rewards steady persistence, and leaves climbers connected to the spirit of Sequoia’s wild granite walls.
Though the granite is generally solid, watch for loose rubble ledges on pitch three and maintain vigilance on the steepening face of pitch four. The final scramble demands sure-footedness and attention to avoid dislodging loose rock.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun heating the wall.
Pack enough water for the approach and climb as there are no reliable water sources nearby.
Double-check gear placements on the bulge pitch for added security.
Scramble carefully off the top due to loose rock and uneven footing.
Standard rack with doubles from green to purple Camalots recommended. Protection placements are mostly straightforward but expect tricky spots near the bulge and ensure secure camming around the varied crack widths.
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