"Traction avant carves a demanding single pitch just right of Trois Quart Putain in Les Fesses. This 5.10d trad route challenges climbers with a sustained crux near the top and mixed protection on textured Laurentian rock."
Traction avant stands as a compelling trad route carved into the rugged face of Les Fesses, part of the Laurentians range in Quebec. This single-pitch climb, rated at 5.10d, invites climbers with an appetite for precise footwork and mental focus. The crack system sits just right of the notable Trois Quart Putain, offering a route with natural lines that challenge and reward in equal measure. The rock, slightly textured and moderately featured, demands a combination of finger strength and careful gear placements, with the crux positioned near the top where tension builds and decisions become critical.
Approaching the route, you’ll feel the cool northern air brushing through the forested approach trail that leads to the base, about a 10 to 15-minute wander through mixed hardwoods and evergreens. The climb’s exposed face plays with light and shadow, shifting from direct sun at midday to dappled shade as afternoon progresses, making timing a subtle but important factor for comfort and grip.
Protection on Traction avant is a mixed arrangement, requiring a rack that blends cams and nuts to navigate a variety of crack widths. The placements are good but not all bomber, so experience in trusting marginal gear will heighten your safety margin. The finish shares its top anchors with Boucher Trou, which creeps slightly harder at 5.11d, meaning the final moves demand sustained focus and strength. This overlap creates a natural gathering point to rest, assess, and celebrate the ascent.
If you enjoy routes that demand both physical finesse and route-finding skill, this climb offers an authentic trad experience in a setting that feels both wild and accessible. The Laurentians deliver a quieter climbing atmosphere compared to more crowded hotspots, yet they gift panoramic woodland views framing each ascent.
Prepare for cool, often damp conditions; solid hiking boots help on the sometimes slippery approach, and layers are recommended to navigate temperature shifts. Always double-check your rack for a balanced set of protection suited to cracks varying from tight fingers to hand-sized. Water is easily carried but plan for limited amenities at the trailhead. Early starts maximize daylight and ensure the rock will be cool enough to comfortably grip.
Traction avant is a worthy test for intermediate trad climbers ready to push into steeper terrain, with an honest rating and a crux that keeps you engaged until the last clip. It's less about flash and more about steady movement, focus, and the quiet satisfaction of threading a natural line through solid rock. A visit here is as much about embracing the forested Laurentian environment as it is about conquering the route itself.
Protection is mixed with some less-than-perfect placements near the crux—climbers should be confident in placing gear and managing fall potential. Watch for damp rock after rain, which can reduce friction and increase risk.
Plan for a 10-15 minute forested approach with slippery patches after rain.
Start early to climb in cooler morning shade and avoid afternoon sun on the rock.
Check your rack carefully for mid-size cams to cover wider crack sections.
Use sturdy approach shoes or boots for better grip on damp terrain.
Bring a mixed trad rack including cams and nuts to protect variable crack sizes. Placements are generally solid but expect some tricky spots near the crux.
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