On the rugged southwest face of Little Hunk, within the echoing vastness of Joshua Tree National Park, the climb called Top 40 To Middle Toilet stands out as a subtle but demanding trad route. This 80-foot excursion threads a narrow line up the left edge of the southwest face, a stretch where the rock feels tight under your fingertips and the desert wind hums through sparse vegetation. From the first hold, the climb requires precision and measured movement, with every step balancing technique and trust in your gear.

The route features only two fixed bolts — one positioned low to protect the initial moves, the other strategically placed near the top — leaving much of the protection to your own placements. These placements demand both confidence and good judgment; the cracks and edges here are slender but reliable for those carrying a well-rounded rack. The climb rewards steady progress over flashy moves, inviting you to read the rock and adapt as the feature narrows.

Joshua Tree’s desert sun casts long shadows across the SW face, lending cooler conditions in the early morning hours and a warm glow as afternoon approaches. The approach leads you across open desert scrub, with scattered rock formations punctuating the wide horizon. Little Hunk’s position within Joshua Tree’s protected wilderness means a quiet solitude, where the desert’s relentless spirit pushes you to stay focused and determined.

This climb suits those ready to engage with a traditional crack and face climb that offers technical challenge rather than sheer power. The 5.9- rating hints at a route that feels approachable but carries a crux where effort and deft gear placements come together. Ideal for seasoned beginners moving into more serious trad, it provides a valuable test of technique and mental composure.

For planning your ascent, the access is straightforward but requires care—the trail weaving through uneven terrain demands sturdy footwear and an attentive pace. Hydration is critical in this dry environment, especially when temperatures rise after midday. Because of the limited fixed protection, climbers should carry a versatile rack with small cams and nuts to maximize safety.

Descending involves a calm walk-off around Little Hunk’s base, allowing for a low-stress return without the need for rappels or complex maneuvers. Altogether, Top 40 To Middle Toilet gives you a taste of Joshua Tree’s character: a blend of quiet desert wilderness with pockets of sharp climbing that test your skills and keep you rooted in the moment.