"Tom's Route is a foundational trad climb in New Brunswick, offering 80 feet of solid rock with approachable moves and reliable protection. This historic single-pitch line blends gentle challenge with rich local climbing heritage, perfect for emerging leaders and seasoned climbers alike."
Tom's Route offers climbers an approachable yet thoroughly rewarding introduction to trad climbing in the rugged wilderness of New Brunswick. With a single pitch stretching 80 feet along solid rock, this climb invites a steady rhythm of movement that rewards focus and finesse over brute strength. First ascended in 1976 by Tom Butz, this route holds the distinction of being the oldest documented climb in the province, blending a quiet history with an accessible challenge for current adventurers.
The rock quality along Tom's Route is excellent, providing dependable holds and gratifying friction on a wall that demands careful footwork as much as confident hand placements. The climb unfolds with a gentle upward traverse, punctuated by a few small bulges that tease out balance and technique. The position of the route within The Great Roof Area offers a vantage point open to the north, allowing climbers to enjoy cool shade during the warm summer months and vibrant views of the surrounding forest canopy.
Gear requirements are straightforward: a standard rack up to 3 inches will serve you well, with solid placements available throughout the pitch. A convenient tree anchor awaits at the top, simplifying the descent. The approach to the climb is pleasant and manageable, cutting through mixed terrain that transitions from soft, pine-needle covered forest floor to exposed rock pathways. Expect a 15 to 20-minute hike to reach the base, offering time to tune into the quiet wilderness around you before you commit to the line.
Tom's Route balances patience and reward beautifully: while the grade of 5.4 suggests an easy climb on paper, the moves demand attention to detail and make it a perfect challenge for beginners stepping into traditional climbing, as well as a refreshing outing for seasoned climbers seeking a smoother cruise. The route’s historic significance adds a layer of respect and connection to the climbing culture of New Brunswick, making each move a small nod to the pioneers who first pushed these lines.
Planning your climb here means preparing for variable weather typical of the region—light rain can make rock slick, but dry days bring out the best friction. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential for steadiness on the slab sections, while hydration remains important in the relatively remote setting. An early start is advisable to avoid afternoon heat and to enjoy the gentle morning light filtering through the high canopy.
As you climb, listen to the forest’s hum—the rustle of leaves, occasional birdsong, and the subtle scrape of your gear against stone—all components of an outdoor experience that blends quiet wilderness with a personal test of skill. Whether you’re closing your first lead or savoring a familiar route, Tom's Route stands as an inviting gateway into New Brunswick's climbing heritage and its wild, natural charm.
Rock here is solid but can become slick after rain, so avoid climbing on wet days. The approach path includes uneven terrain; watch your footing to prevent slips. At the top, the tree anchor is sturdy but inspect webbing and knots before rappelling.
Start early in the morning to catch cooler temps and soft shade along the route.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for secure footing on slab sections.
Carry adequate water as the approach and climbing area offer limited natural hydration sources.
Check the weather forecast; wet rock reduces friction and safety on this line.
Standard trad rack up to 3 inches needed. Placement opportunities are consistent, with a reliable tree anchor at the top for easy descent.
Upload your photos of Tom's Route and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.