Adventure Collective

Thus Us: A Robust Trad Climb in Boulder Canyon’s Avalon

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
cleaned route
single pitch
5.9 trad
granite
Avalon
Boulder Canyon
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Thus Us
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Thus Us offers a solid single-pitch trad crack climb in Boulder Canyon’s Avalon sector. It’s a physically engaging route with well-cleaned holds and a steady hand-jam sequence, perfect for climbers refining their crack skills in a stunning, accessible mountain setting."

Thus Us: A Robust Trad Climb in Boulder Canyon’s Avalon

Tucked within the rugged folds of Boulder Canyon, the Thus Us route presents climbers with a solid introduction to the Avalon sector's gritty, hand-jammed crack systems. Stretching 75 feet over a single pitch, this trad climb calls for focused technique rather than flashy moves, rewarding those who trust their crack skills and steady footwork. The hand jams here engage like an old partner, firm and reliable, urging you to commit as you ascend through a line that demands physical presence rather than a flash crux. The approach through Avalon’s Third Tier places you amidst rocky outcrops and sweeping canyon views, where pines whisper in the breeze and the granite bears the marks of countless ascents.

This route has recently undergone considerable cleaning — a labor of care led by local climbers Richard, Pebby, and Bruno — stripping away loose rock and debris to reveal solid granite beneath. Despite this thorough clearing, patches of dirt still cling to the fissures, and bringing a brush on your descent is encouraged to keep the route in prime condition for future ascents. The result is a climb that feels substantial and honest, slightly abrasive in texture yet straightforward in character.

Protection on Thus Us requires a well-rounded trad rack with a focus on larger cams between 3 and 4 inches, precisely where the crack widens. While the anchor currently relies on a single sling and a couple of biners around a tree, this setup calls for an upgrade — adding a second sling or a rapid link will enhance safety and ease your transition off the climb.

Avalon's location within Boulder Canyon offers easy access from the nearby city of Boulder, Colorado. The ascent rewards climbers not just with its climbing quality, but also with sweeping mountain views to the west and a quiet forest setting that tempers the canyon’s ruggedness. The climb’s moderate grade of 5.9- suits climbers building confidence on crack moves, offering enough challenge through sustained effort rather than isolated difficulty. It's an unsung route whose character strengthens as it cleans up, making it an appealing goal for trad enthusiasts looking to hone their skills in a classic Colorado setting.

With an approach that involves a manageable hike through mixed dirt trails and exposed slabs, plan for about 30 minutes to reach the base. Footwear with sticky rubber will serve well on the granite, and a hydration pack is smart on warmer days given the southwest exposure. The wall faces predominantly south-west, catching morning sun and shading in late afternoon, making spring and fall ideal climbing seasons when temperatures are moderate.

After topping out, the descent is straightforward with a short walk off the ridge, but given the cliff’s height and the moderate but real exposure, climbers should be comfortable managing anchors and rappels if they prefer a safer retreat. Be prepared for loose dirt and potential debris on the ledges below, especially after late-summer rains.

Thus Us offers a grounded climbing experience, where the intimacy of hand jams and the embrace of a solid crack form the core of the challenge. It's a route that invites you to get hands and feet intimately involved with the rock’s personality — practical, gritty, and rewarding. For climbers eager to refine traditional skills in a classic Boulder setting, it’s a route with steady appeal and room to grow.

Climber Safety

The anchor setup is currently minimal—a single sling and two biners around a tree—and should be upgraded before trusting it fully. Watch for residual dirt along the holds, which can reduce friction, and be cautious of loose debris on ledges during descent, especially after wet conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Bring a climbing brush to clear dirt on your way down and help maintain the route.

Plan your approach for about 30 minutes through mixed terrain with some exposed slabs.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for the granite to maximize grip on hand jams and edges.

Climb in spring or fall to avoid intense heat; the wall has morning sun and afternoon shade.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating on Thus Us feels approachable but demands solid crack technique, especially with the sustained physical moves off hand-jams. It's not a crux-heavy climb, more a continuous test of endurance and precision, making it a bit stiff for newer climbers but gratifying for those with basic trad experience. Compared to nearby Avalon climbs, it sits comfortably as a moderate challenge with good potential as the route continues to improve.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack with emphasis on larger cams in the 3-4 inch range is essential for secure placements along the crack. The upper anchor currently relies on a single sling with biners around a tree but upgrading to a second sling or rapid link is advised for added safety.

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Tags

hand crack
cleaned route
single pitch
5.9 trad
granite
Avalon
Boulder Canyon