"Discover a bold two-pitch sport climb at Las Agujas in El Potrero Chico, featuring technical moves and a memorable roof crux. This emerging classic blends sun-soaked jugs, shaded ledges, and a thrilling top-out that invites climbers to engage with one of northern Mexico's striking spires."
Through the Looking Glass carves a compelling path up the raw, vertical faces of Las Agujas within the famed El Potrero Chico area. This two-pitch sport route, stretching 180 feet, challenges climbers with its dynamic transitions, technical moves, and a memorable roof crux that demands both strength and precision. As you ascend, the route reveals itself through shifting light and shadows, starting on sun-baked jugs that promise a solid hold, before venturing left of a prominent off-width crack. The first pitch, secured with ten bolts, leads climbers to a shady ledge where rest feels earned. From this perch, pitch two pushes you through a daring, large roof that commands attention with its steep overhang, testing your technique on 5.10d moves before topping out on an exposed, yet rewarding, summit.
El Potrero Chico's jagged spires push skyward against the northern Mexico horizon, their sharp faces daring you to engage fully with the rock and your own limits. The environment around Las Agujas is both rugged and striking; dry canyon winds weave through desert scrub, while the altitude brings a crisp clarity to the air. Approach trails meander past scattered cactus and sun-baked stone, a reminder to hydrate wisely and protect your skin. The descent is as practical as the climb—two rappels, the first returning you to pitch one's anchor, the second navigating either a 70m rope’s limits or a safer 60m rappel using nearby anchors, before a short hike back to base.
Although the route still wears a bit of dust and grime from its youth, regular use promises a cleaner, sharper line soon to be a classic testpiece of the region. The protection is straightforward with well-placed bolts throughout, but the technical crux and subtle moves along the faces mean climbers need attentive footwork and confident clipping. Given its elevation and exposed top-out, a morning start is ideal to avoid afternoon sun and maximize shaded breaks. Wear sturdy approach shoes for the rocky access trail and carry enough water to stay vigilant in the dry heat. Whether you're stepping up from solid 5.10 climbs or hunting for a memorable roof section in a spectacular setting, Through the Looking Glass offers a well-crafted challenge that rewards preparation as much as persistence on the wall.
The descent requires careful attention: rappelling from the top uses anchors that demand a full 60m rope for safety, and while a 70m rope can reach the ground directly, it’s a close call that leaves little margin. Loose rock around the anchors and on the approach make helmet use advisable. Additionally, the roof section has some sharp edges that can snag gear if not managed carefully.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and shaded belays on the first pitch.
Hydrate well before and during the climb; the approach and wall can become quite warm by midday.
Use sturdy approach shoes to handle the rocky trail and loose scree near the base.
Bring a 60m or 70m rope for efficient descents, and familiarize yourself with the rappel anchors.
Equipped with around ten bolts across two pitches, this sport route requires a standard climbing rack centered on draws. The protection is reliable and well-spaced, with no tricky placements. A 60m rope suffices for descent using nearby anchors, although a 70m rope can be used to rappel directly to the ground.
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