"This Buds For You presents a concise, seven-bolt challenge built around delicate footwork and a surprising step-across crux. It’s a technical reward for climbers who appreciate focused movement combined with the quiet atmosphere of Kernville’s granite slabs."
Perched within the rugged contours of Kernville Rock’s Needles area, "This Buds For You" offers climbers a swift, focused sprint of sport climbing that tests precision and balance. Spanning approximately 135 feet on a single pitch, this route threads through seven bolts, leading upward to a chained anchor positioned just beneath an overlapping roof. Beginning 15 feet to the right of the popular "Hop Matter," the climb traces a right-leaning crack and ramp that demands steady footwork and subtle moves.
The route’s heart reveals itself near the sixth bolt — here, an exhilarating step-across introduces a fleeting moment of commitment. To add intricacy, a mossy patch tips its cap, requiring mindful toe placement and a calm rhythm to move past safely. This section constitutes the crux, inviting climbers to engage fully with their balance and body tension. Continuing beyond the seventh bolt, climbers ascend gently up and right towards the shared chains of the anchor, a welcome refuge after the technical middle section.
Surrounding this single pitch, the granite slabs of Kernville form a raw, open arena that embraces natural elements without distraction. The rock’s texture offers solid friction, but the moss around the crux cautions against complacency. Climbers should be prepared for limited rope stretch; a 70-meter rope just makes the lowers possible, demanding careful rope management and an awareness of the length to avoid any surprises when retreating from the anchors.
Accessing "This Buds For You" involves a short walk into the Needles, where a blend of forest scent and river breeze accompanies the approach, putting paddlers and hikers alike in a focused frame of mind. Timing your climb early in the day keeps the rock pleasantly cool and avoids the afternoon sun that sweeps across the southern-facing wall. This route is ideal for those seeking a moderate challenge with technical moments, set against a backdrop that balances quiet adventure and straightforward execution.
Moss on the rock near the crux can be slippery; approach this section with precise foot placements. Also, the 70-meter rope length is barely sufficient for lowering – double check rope length before your climb to avoid complications.
Bring a 70-meter rope to ensure you can safely lower from the single pitch.
Start early in the day to avoid midday heat, as the wall faces south.
Keep an eye on moss near the crux; careful foot placement improves safety and efficiency.
Approach through marked trails in the Needles area, which offer a refreshing mix of forest and open terrain.
Seven bolts protect the route, requiring standard quickdraws. The fixed anchors are shared with 'Lagers With Laeger,' accessible with a 70-meter rope for rappelling or lowering.
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