Rising sharply to 10,900 feet along the northern ridgeline above Whitney Portal, The Wrinkled Lady commands attention with its striking pyramid shape and sharply defined geometric dihedrals. This imposing 500-foot granite wall is both a physical and mental challenge for climbers willing to tackle its sustained lines. Long overshadowed by more accessible routes at Whitney Portal, The Wrinkled Lady offers a rare blend of history, adventure, and strenuous approach that keeps the route truly special.

First touched by the legendary Fred Beckey in the late 1960s or early 1970s, the original Beckey route climbs the prominent central dihedral, navigating under large overhanging roofs with a mix of 5.8 free climbing and A3 aid sections. Though classic, it remains a serious undertaking demanding solid aid skills and a respect for the length and complexity of the climb.

In more recent years, the moderately challenging free-solo route known as Ummagumma has drawn wider attention. Rated III-IV 5.7 A0 or 5.9 for pure free climbing, this route follows a prominent dihedral around 200 feet left of Fred Beckey's line and has been affectionately referred to as the “Royal Arches of the Portal.” Ummagumma offers faster climbing on mostly moderate terrain but requires confident route-finding and a measured approach to risk, given the exposure and solo nature of the ascent.

Getting there is an adventure itself. The approach climbs roughly 2,000 vertical feet along the first pitches of the Ummagumma route. Deviating from this path quickly plunges climbers into demanding, steep scree fields and dense scrub – terrain that tests stamina and route-finding skills alike. Expect hours of taxing movement before even reaching the base of the wall, making this a destination for climbers who relish the journey as much as the climb.

The granite here is typical of the Eastern Sierra: clean, solid, and offering sharp edges and cracks that reward precise technique. Weather conditions can change rapidly in this high alpine environment, so climbing seasons are best in the drier months, roughly late spring through early fall. Afternoon thunderstorms can present hazards, and early starts are recommended to maximize daylight and avoid heat on sun-exposed sections.

The broader Lone Pine area and Whitney Portal provide a striking backdrop with expansive views of the surrounding Sierras and the town below. After summiting, climbers descend on foot or rappel back to the approach trail, with careful route-choice required to avoid fragility in the limestone scree slopes.

Local climbers prize The Wrinkled Lady not only for its physical demands but for the solitude and connection to climbing heritage it delivers. Few walls in California combine the raw, towering granite face with the kind of wild, off-the-beaten-path approach that this formation demands. If you’re seeking rugged adventure and a climb that tests both head and hands, The Wrinkled Lady will reward you with a memorable experience etched into the high country.

Classic climbs to note include Ummagumma (5.7), a route with a dedicated following for its unique combination of moderate difficulty and breathtaking exposure. While the area remains less crowded than nearby popular crags, preparation and respect for the terrain are paramount.

Plan carefully, carry efficient gear, and savor the long approach. This climb is not for the faint of heart, but for those who embrace the challenge, The Wrinkled Lady delivers a climbing experience that is as wild and uncompromising as the mountain itself.