"The Weak Link stands as a compact 60-foot trad route in Squamish's Milkman’s Wall, blending bolt clips with tricky gear placements. Its pumpy moves through the Horrors of Ivan cave and sharp left traverses deliver an engaging technical challenge for climbers seeking a punchy 5.10d experience."
The Weak Link offers an invigorating taste of Squamish’s traditional climbing scene, tucked within the rugged expanse of Murrin Park. This single-pitch route stretches 60 feet across a varied rock face that demands both strategic gear placements and a steady grip, making it a solid challenge for anyone comfortable at the 5.10d range. Beginning with a bold start where you clip the first bolt from the approach to The Pass, the climb quickly moves into a dynamic traverse left into the shadowed recesses of the Horrors of Ivan cave. Here, the rock tests your ability to read the line and trust your placements, as you move along bolts and carefully chosen cam placements up to 2 inches. The route’s pumpy nature becomes evident in this section, where steady breathing and calculated moves are essential to keep momentum.
Continuing left across a distinct horizontal break, you gain a strong sensation of interplay with the rock — as if the wall itself challenges your commitment. The finish directs you upward, ending on Mr. O’clock for a satisfying conclusion to the climb. The bolted anchors provide reliable protection, a welcome reassurance in an otherwise gear-dependent climb. Despite a modest star rating, the route’s character and compact length make it a worthy contender for a focused day of pushing technical limits.
Located in the heart of Squamish, the Milkman's Wall stands out for its exposed granite that catches sun in the afternoon, and the nearby forested trails that soften the approach noise and offer moments of calm before the mental focus of climbing. The moderate approach trail takes about 15 minutes and includes some loose sections, so solid shoes are recommended, along with appropriate hydration given the area’s variable microclimate.
For climbers seeking a well-balanced trad route that blends bolt-protected sections and effortless gear placements, The Weak Link provides a memorable outing. It's a climb that demands body control, sharp route reading, and respect for the rock’s subtle personality. Whether you’re tightening your rack for Squamish’s trad classics or honing your lead skills, this route is an essential part of the Milkman’s Wall experience.
The approach includes loose sections where footing can be uncertain—watch your step to avoid slips. On the climb, be mindful of gear placements in the cave and horizontal traverse as some cams may be less bomber due to rock texture. The bolted anchor provides solid security for the top.
Approach takes about 15 minutes; shoes with good traction are recommended for loose sections.
Afternoon sun warms the wall—plan climbs accordingly to avoid overheating.
Carry extra cams up to 2 inches to protect tricky placements.
Hydrate well and pack light to maintain stamina on the pumpy moves.
Prepare for a mix of bolt clipping and trad placements up to 2 inches. The route begins on a bolt but requires solid cam placements and finishes on a reliable bolted anchor.
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