"The Texas Tumble at El Potrero Chico invites climbers into a compelling mix of crack and slab. Featuring varied moves across one or two pitches, this 5.10d sport route offers technical challenges in a rugged desert setting, perfect for those seeking both technique and flow."
The Texas Tumble unfolds on the far left of The Dihedrals wall in El Potrero Chico, offering climbers a compact yet richly varied sport route that tests a range of skills across its roughly 95-foot ascent. This climb shines with a striking contrast: a lower section dominated by crack climbing, transitioning smoothly into a slabby face higher up. It’s a route that invites you into a hands-on dialogue with the rock—cracks that challenge your jamming technique, a pocket that welcomes a satisfying rest, and a slab that rewards delicate balance and precise footwork.
Starting low, you engage a short, smooth slab where footing demands attention before reaching a couple of bolts that mark the gateway leftward onto a steep face section. Here, two parallel cracks offer distinct lines: the taller climber can stretch to bridge both, while shorter climbers often favor the right crack. Bet on a dynamic mix—layback moves, stemming techniques, and well-placed jams that conjure a subtle rhythm, breaking up the climb so it never feels monotonous. This is pitch one: five bolts protect the move up these cracks before reaching a broad ledge and a secure, bolted anchor.
Pitch two, shared with the route Remember The Alamo, shifts focus from crack climbing to slab. The rock here is more delicate, less featured, requiring a steady head and calm feet. You’ll negotiate six or seven bolts climbing a slabby face and arete, moving deliberately to stay confident on this exposure. The anchor at the top offers a safe haven to check your gear and savor the view.
While the entire route can be linked with a 60m or 70m rope, splitting it into two pitches gives both strategic rest and a moment to enjoy the varied terrain. The setting in El Potrero Chico adds its own flavor: a dry, rugged environment where the rock seems to lean into the sky, daring you upward. The dry air carries the faint clang of distant climbers and the occasional desert breeze.
Protection is straightforward, with 17 bolts distributed between the pitches and solid bolted anchors. This lets climbers move confidently without worrying about placing gear, focusing instead on flow, balance, and technique. The climb’s grade of 5.10d reflects its moderate challenge—a technical test rather than pure power—making it a rewarding objective for those comfortable with sport climbing pushing beyond the beginner level.
Approach is accessible with a well-marked trail leading to The Dihedrals sector, a popular spot in El Potrero Chico. The area benefits from early morning shade, tempering the heat that can build in the afternoon under the northern Mexican sun. Carry plenty of water and wear climbing shoes that excel on both cracks and slabs to maximize efficiency. Rappelling is the standard descent and the anchors at the top are reliable, but always double-check your setup and be mindful of rope drag on the traverse sections.
This route’s variety, from crack jams to slab delicacy, makes it an ideal test piece and an engaging experience. It offers a taste of El Potrero Chico’s distinct climbing character—raw, technical, and deeply satisfying for those ready to tackle its combined demands.
Rappel descent requires attention to proper anchor checks and rope management due to potential drag on the traverse. The rock is solid but the slab can feel slick if dusty—careful foot placement is essential, especially late in the day when rock temperatures drop.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat; the wall enjoys morning shade.
Wear shoes that handle both crack jamming and slab friction.
Bring extra water—El Potrero Chico is arid and dry.
Double-check anchors and rope management for the rappel descent.
The Texas Tumble uses 17 bolts distributed over the pitch(es) with reliable bolted anchors. A 60m or 70m rope will suffice for a single or two-pitch approach. No gear placements are necessary due to full bolting.
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