"The Serpent carves a steady 500-foot line through Midgard’s granite, delivering four pitches of solid 5.8- traditional climbing. Perfect for trad climbers looking for well-protected pitches framed by the raw beauty of Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park."
The Serpent on Midgard's rugged face cuts a striking path through striking granite expanse within Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park. This four-pitch traditional climb offers a steady, accessible challenge for those eager to spend a day ascending quality rock framed by towering forests and soaring peaks. From the base, fresh mountain air mixes with the faint scent of pine, while sun-warmed granite invites climbers upward along solid holds punctuated by patches of lichen and the occasional rough texture — reminders of the wild and enduring landscape.
The route can be approached in two main ways: a full four-pitch push from the ground or a shortened three-pitch climb starting from the Valhalla Traverse ledge, where fixed ropes await. Both options highlight the climb’s well-protected nature, featuring a relatively casual 5.8- rating that balances comfortable movement with enough technical engagement to hold interest. Protection placements are dependable, favoring traditional gear, with draws recommended to navigate some clipped sections efficiently.
The approach itself sets the tone: a moderate hike through mixed forest terrain leading to the rocky amphitheater where Midgard rises into the sky. This area carries the freshness of alpine high country, with shifting sunlight filtering through pine needles and the steady sound of distant wildlife. Climbers should come prepared with a 70-meter rope to ensure smooth rappels after the ascent, and bringing a second rope will simplify descent options and enhance efficiency.
As you climb, the stone beneath your fingers feels worn yet trustworthy, interspersed with sections softened by lichen and minor debris. This route appeals to both adventurous newcomers stepping into multi-pitch trad climbs and seasoned climbers seeking scenic ascent without complex cruxes. The top-out rewards with sweeping views across the Valhalla area, a reminder of the vast wilderness ringed by peaks and forests.
Before setting out, ensure your gear includes a solid rack of cams and nuts suitable for 5.8 trad climbs, paired with quickdraws for clipping. Early morning starts help avoid afternoon warmth while keeping the rock cool underfoot. Hydration is key in this high desert-meets-mountain environment, and sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability will boost confidence on tighter sections.
Whether climbing in summer’s sun or chasing cooler shoulder seasons, The Serpent offers a balanced experience—clear routes, secure protection, and a quiet wilderness setting that lets the environment speak as much to your spirit as the challenge does to your skill. Pack efficiently, focus on technique, and let the granite guide your way up the Midgard face.
Watch out for lichen-covered holds that can reduce friction, especially in early morning dampness. Fixed ropes at the Valhalla Traverse ledge should be checked for wear before trusting. Bring a 70m rope for rappel, and always confirm double rope use if you plan to rappel quickly or escape.
Start early to keep the rock cool and avoid afternoon heat.
A 70m rope is the minimum for rappelling; consider a second rope for easier escapes.
Footwear with solid edging capability enhances control on slightly rough granite.
Hydrate well — the approach and climb sit at elevation with dry air.
A 70m rope is essential for the rappels after the ascent; draws will help clip some fixed gear sections smoothly. Bringing a second rope can speed up the descent and improve safety. Prepare with a traditional rack suited for 5.8 climbing, including cams and nuts in standard sizes.
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