Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingThe Ridge

The Ridge on Piz Badille: A Classic Moderate Trad Climb in Colorado's St. Vrain Canyons

Lyons, Colorado United States
trad
ridge climb
multi-pitch
exposed
route-finding
small gear
moderate
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
The Ridge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Ridge on Piz Badille offers climbers a hands-on trad adventure along Colorado’s striking St. Vrain Canyons. Starting with a demanding pitch full of route-finding puzzles, this five-pitch climb unfolds into steady moderate terrain capped by an exposed traverse that rewards focus and offers sweeping views."

The Ridge on Piz Badille: A Classic Moderate Trad Climb in Colorado's St. Vrain Canyons

Rising sharply from the rugged slopes above Lyons, Colorado, The Ridge on Piz Badille commands attention as a fantastic moderate trad route that offers both adventure and technical challenge in the heart of the St. Vrain Canyons. Stretching roughly 500 feet over five pitches, this climb charts a course along the left margin of the mountain’s west-northwest face—a line easily spotted in George Bell’s iconic photographs. The climb’s narrative begins with a demanding mind game: locating the ridge crest means negotiating thin edges and tricky smears where careful protection placement tests not just skill but nerve. This opening pitch sets the tone with its 5.8- rating, blending technical moves and route-finding puzzles that push climbers to read the rock and trust their gear.

Once the initial hurdles are behind you, the route uncoils into a rhythm of accessible climbing on solid stone with well-protected cracks. Pitches two and three ease into steady 5.4 terrain, inviting you to move confidently along narrowing ridgelines peppered with good holds. These sections reward steady feet and measured breathing, tracing a path along the mountain’s sharp edge while pausing at spacious ledges where you can savor views of the canyon below and the whisper of wind in the high alpine air.

Approaching the summit plateau, the fourth pitch reintroduces crack systems that challenge your placement skills and awareness. Here, rope drag can quickly sap energy, so take advantage of long slings and deliberate movements to maintain efficiency. Standing atop the plateau, you’re greeted not just by views but by the reality that a final traverse awaits—a 5.0 pitch that reclaims the ridge crest with a breathtaking exposure flanked by 300-foot drops on either side. This stretch delivers a classic ridge experience, melding technical climbing with the exhilaration of high alpine exposure.

The descent shifts to a scramble down talus slopes softened by moss, descending northward back to the forested edges where your pack waits. This route demands a standard rack; bring small stoppers, RPs, and a careful eye for protecting tricky moves, especially in the thin cracks near the start. An ancient bolt remains on pitch one but its rusted and loose state means it’s mostly there for nostalgia rather than security—rely on good gear placements instead.

Climbing The Ridge on Piz Badille is more than a checklist tick—it’s a nuanced journey through Colorado's wild heart, balancing technical challenges with moments of effortless flow. The mountain’s face calls for respect, focus, and a spirit ready to engage with every crack, ledge, and exposure. With a steady approach, solid gear, and a keen eye for route-finding, this climb delivers memorable alpine trad climbing minutes from the bustle of Lyons.

Climber Safety

The first pitch involves tricky protection on thin edges, and the old bolt should not be relied upon. Loose rock and exposure demand attentive climbing. The exposed traverse on pitch five requires a steady head and careful gear placement to maintain security. Descend carefully via talus slopes; slippery moss can hide unstable footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Approach route-finding on pitch one with patience—taking time to place solid protection saves energy later.

Carry extra small gear for the thin dihedral crack where placements are sparse but crucial.

Use long slings on pitch four to reduce rope drag as the route snakes around ledges and cracks.

Plan your climb for dry conditions; loose rock and moisture on ledges increase risk.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating feels soft in some sections but is challenged by the technical crux and route-finding demands of the first pitch. The rest of the climb eases into solid 5.4 and 5.5 moves with reliable protection, making the grade approachable for experienced moderate trad climbers. Compared to nearby routes, The Ridge stands out for its balance between sustained moderate climbing and an exciting exposed traverse.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with a focus on small stoppers and RPs for thin cracks. An ancient bolt on pitch one is present but unreliable, so rely on natural protection. Long slings are recommended to manage rope drag especially on pitch four.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of The Ridge and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
ridge climb
multi-pitch
exposed
route-finding
small gear
moderate