HomeClimbingThe Return of Dow

The Return of Dow: A Classic South Flatirons Trad Adventure

Boulder, Colorado United States
long route
slab climbing
runout
climber endurance
multi-pitch
trad protection
exposed downclimb
rock quality solid
Length: 2300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
13
Location
The Return of Dow
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Spanning 13 pitches across the South Flatirons, The Return of Dow is an endurance-driven granite slab climb blending moderate moves with a handful of tested cruxes. Its length and delicate pro placement call for steady nerves and route precision on Boulder’s iconic smooth stone."

The Return of Dow: A Classic South Flatirons Trad Adventure

Stretching over 13 pitches and encompassing roughly 2,300 feet of climbing, The Return of Dow in Boulder’s South Flatirons is a commitment that rewards with expansive views and diverse climbing terrain. Starting from the nadir of The Slab, this route offers a blend of straightforward moderate moves punctuated by occasional test sections that keep your focus sharp. The climb itself unfolds over huge granite slabs—smooth, angled expanses that demand steady footwork and mental grit more than brute strength. Early pitches present long, runout slabs with thin protection, requiring climbers to stay confident on delicate terrain where the first piece of gear can sit 180 feet above your starting point.

As you ascend, the route gradually shifts to more engaging climbing that tests technique and offers chances to place solid pro. The 6th pitch introduces a notable descent—a 100-foot downclimb at 5.7—where careful route-finding and control are essential to stay safe. The crux arrives on the 8th pitch, a downclimb rated 5.9- that challenges even seasoned climbers to balance tension and precision on somewhat exposed rock.

From there, the route arcs leftward toward the upper reaches of The Slab. The final pitches gradually ease to solid 5.8 climbing, guiding you to the summit’s sunlit edge. The descent demands attention, involving a downclimb from the top pitches to exit the route. Throughout, the rock quality remains high with minimal loose sections, and the protection typically consists of a standard trad rack to #4 Camalot, though placements can be sparse on some of the longer pitches, elevating the route’s seriousness.

Access to the climb is straightforward from Boulder with well-marked trails leading to the base of The Slab. The approach walks you through a recovering forest of scraggly pines and granite boulders, with distant city views giving way to quiet wilderness. Timing your climb to avoid the midday sun is advisable, as the broad slabs can bake under Colorado’s summer heat; spring and fall offer the most comfortable temperatures and agreeable conditions.

Preparation through solid rope management is vital on this long route. A 200-foot rope is standard and allows for the lengthy pitches that characterize the climb. Hydration and snacks should be packed with care since the descent and approach require sustained energy.

The Return of Dow balances adventure and tradition, presenting a mostly moderate but sustained challenge that feels classic Flatirons. Its combination of long slab pitches, occasional downclimbs, and a serious X-rated section invite climbers ready to embrace patience, detailed route-finding, and calculated risk. This route is ideal for climbers who prize endurance and subtle technical skill over pure difficulty, offering a day packed with movement, thinking, and absorbing the essence of Boulder’s storied granite walls.

Climber Safety

The initial pitches have long distances between protection points, so climbers must remain composed and precise on thin friction slabs. Be especially cautious on the 5.6 X and 5.9- downclimb sections, where a slip could have serious consequences. Seasonal heat and sun exposure can also impact grip and dehydration risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches13
Length2300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid strong afternoon sun blazing on the wide granite slabs.

Bring plenty of water, as the approach and climb demand sustained stamina.

Prepare for an exposed downclimb on pitch 6, so brush up on downclimbing skills.

Manage rope carefully on the long runout pitches to minimize drag and ensure safety.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- X
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grade includes an X-rated section, signaling a runout slab with serious fall potential. While the 5.9 moves are well protected, the route’s length and intermittent downclimbs add layers of sustained effort. Compared to other Flatirons climbs, it requires a unique balance of calm on runout terrain and tactical gear placement, making it a notably serious endeavor despite its moderate technical rating.

Gear Requirements

Standard traditional rack up to #4 Camalot recommended, paired with a 200-foot rope to manage the extended pitches. Protection can be sparse on initial slab sections, so confidence in runout climbing and precise gear placement is essential.

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Tags

long route
slab climbing
runout
climber endurance
multi-pitch
trad protection
exposed downclimb
rock quality solid