HomeClimbingThe Princes' Buns

The Princes' Buns: A Compact Challenge on The Dark Side

Nordegg, Alberta Canada
roof problem
compression
sport climbing
short pitch
Alberta crag
spring-fall climbing
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Princes' Buns
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A brisk 60-foot roof problem packed with compression moves, The Princes' Buns offers a tight, powerful climbing sequence on The Dark Side’s sheltered walls. Perfect for climbers seeking a dynamic challenge within Alberta's mountain air."

The Princes' Buns: A Compact Challenge on The Dark Side

The Princes' Buns presents a tightly packed climbing experience where every move demands focus and precision. Situated on the rugged wall of The Dark Side in Nordegg, Alberta, this 60-foot sport climb offers an invigorating roof problem right off the ground that immediately engages your upper body and tests your technique. As you pull through the initial strenuous overhang, the route opens into a sequence of compression moves that lead upward on solid, well-shaped blocks. The rock feels crisp beneath your fingers, with just enough texture to reassure you as you shift weight and balance through each hold.

This climb moves quickly, packed into a single pitch, making it ideal for those looking to sharpen power and technique without committing to a long route. The bolts—seven solid placements—are generously spaced to keep the climbing dynamic but safe, encouraging fluid movement rather than static hesitation. Despite its moderate length, the line offers a rewarding, full-body challenge where strength and body positioning share the spotlight.

Approach The Princes' Buns with sturdy sport climbing shoes and be prepared to engage your core fully from the outset. Timing your effort to avoid afternoon heat is advised; the wall faces west, catching sun in the later hours that can turn the rock noticeably warm. Early morning or late afternoon climbs offer a cooler, more comfortable grip experience.

Nordegg’s natural setting complements the climb well, with stands of spruce and fir surrounding the climbing area and crisp mountain air. The route’s position on The Dark Side pays homage to its sheltered stance, offering some relief from prevailing winds and the occasional morning shade. While this climb doesn’t stretch long, the quality of movement and the setting’s secluded feel make it a compelling option for climbers in the area looking to mix power climbing with the beauty of Alberta’s outdoors.

Local knowledge emphasizes hydration and warming up adequately, especially if tackling this route after colder mornings. The trail to The Dark Side is a brief but sometimes uneven walk, so good approach shoes are recommended. Given the compact nature of the route and the quality of protection, it is well-suited for intermediate climbers wanting to refine dynamic body tension or advanced climbers seeking a high-intensity warm-up before longer excursions nearby.

Climber Safety

Watch footing on the approach, where rocky sections require care especially when wet. On the climb, the roof’s holds can be pumpy—don’t rush your clipping at the traverse or you risk losing control. The bolts are solid but take your time managing rope drag on the pitch.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid the intense afternoon sun on the west-facing wall.

Wear shoes with excellent edging capabilities for the roof and compression moves.

Bring plenty of water to stay hydrated during warm spells in the alpine setting.

Approach trail includes uneven terrain; sturdy footwear for the hike-in is recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, this route challenges climbers with a strong roof crux upfront that demands powerful, controlled moves. The grade is spot on, reflecting the tough initial overhang, but once past the roof, the climbing eases into compression sequences that reward precise body tension. Compared to nearby routes of similar difficulty, The Princes' Buns feels dynamic but fair, with no hidden soft spots in the grading.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 7 bolts, The Princes' Buns requires standard sport climbing gear. The protection is reliable, spaced to support dynamic moves during the roof section and compression sequences.

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Tags

roof problem
compression
sport climbing
short pitch
Alberta crag
spring-fall climbing