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The Power of Oatmeal: Intense Trad Climb on Minkey Wall

Welsford, Canada
short pitch
technical face
horizontal cracks
single bolt
small cams
New Brunswick
granite
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Power of Oatmeal
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A short but stout trad pitch on Minkey Wall, The Power of Oatmeal delivers sharp technical moves across a steep face. Perfect for climbers who appreciate a concentrated challenge that demands precise gear placements and solid technique."

The Power of Oatmeal: Intense Trad Climb on Minkey Wall

The Power of Oatmeal offers a compact but demanding trad climb carved into the rugged contours of Minkey Wall, part of the Cochrane Lane Cliffs in Welsford, New Brunswick. Though brief at just 25 feet, this single-pitch climb delivers a concentrated dose of challenge that punches well above its size, making it an ideal test piece for climbers looking to sharpen their technique on trad gear and face moves. Starting just left of an accessible gully, the route invites you to step into a short, steep face accented by a single bolt and several horizontal crack features demanding precise placements and confident footwork. The stone here is solid, with subtle friction that rewards clean movement and head-on engagement with the rock. Blackened grooves and faint smears beckon you upward toward a small tree perched in the gully, marking a well-defined finish where the climb releases you back to the forested rim.

Set in a lesser-trafficked corner of the Welsford climbing area, this climb feels like a raw opportunity: it’s direct, no-nonsense, and geared for the hands-on trad enthusiast who prizes quality over quantity. Protection is spaced but sensible, requiring a mix of small to medium cams to secure the horizontal cracks along the face. The lone bolt adds a safety anchor but isn’t a crutch—careful gear placement and smart clipping choices are essential. Expect to trust your gear instincts and engage attentively with the rock’s textures and lines.

Access is straightforward, with a short approach to the base of Minkey Wall through forest trails that carry whispers of pine and earthy duff. The vertical exposure is enough to keep you focused without overwhelming, offering a crisp, isolated feeling as wind moves through the branches above. The climb’s brief length makes it suitable as a warm-up or a focused session to hone on specific climbing techniques. Given its orientation, climbing earlier in the day is preferable, as shade from surrounding trees keeps the rock cool and grippy.

Preparation is key; shoes that balance sensitivity and edging ability will make all the difference, as will a lightweight rack tailored to the modest but technical gear placements this climb demands. Though short, The Power of Oatmeal asks for commitment in every move, encouraging climbers to stay attentive and efficient from start to finish. Water, a helmet, and a partner aware of tight soloing spaces round out the essentials. Locals appreciate this climb’s blend of directness and subtle complexity—a bite-sized but memorable challenge on New Brunswick’s granite faces.

Whether you’re working on your trad game or seeking a brief but worthwhile objective in the Welsford area, The Power of Oatmeal stands as a punchy route offering clear lines, solid protection, and a focused dose of climbing intensity that leaves no moments wasted.

Climber Safety

Gear placements on the horizontal cracks can be sparse and demanding, so double-check each placement. The top-out near the small tree includes some loose debris—approach with care to prevent rockfall. Always wear a helmet and communicate clearly with your belayer.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the easy gully trail on Minkey Wall’s left; the route is just beyond the gully’s start.

Early morning climbs benefit from shaded rock that stays cooler and more grippy.

Place gear carefully on horizontals to maintain security and avoid gear pull during moves.

Watch for loose debris near the top tree—clear around your belay stance before finishing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c/d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c/d grade here feels right on the mark, requiring strong technical skills to negotiate its brief but exacting sequences. The bolt adds a safety buffer, but the real test lies in confidently placing gear and managing the horizontal crack features. Compared to nearby routes, it’s a condensed effort packed with sustained moves that reward polished footwork.

Gear Requirements

Bring a small rack focusing on small to medium cams to handle the horizontal crack features, plus quickdraws for the single bolt. A helmet and shoes with precise edging are recommended for secure movement.

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Tags

short pitch
technical face
horizontal cracks
single bolt
small cams
New Brunswick
granite