HomeClimbingThe Power of Leverage

The Power of Leverage

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
hand crack
bolt-protected
single pitch
trad
damp rock risk
Noonday Ridge
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Power of Leverage
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Power of Leverage is a steep, single-pitch trad route that challenges climbers with a right-leaning hand crack and a short bolt-protected section near the Noonday Ridge arete. This compact climb blends crack technique with sport protection, offering a focused test of skill in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs."

The Power of Leverage

In the heart of Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs, The Power of Leverage presents a sharp, focused challenge for trad climbers ready to test their technique and grit on a steep hand crack. This route demands more than brute strength—it calls for precise finger work and efficient body positioning as you ascend a right-leaning crack that holds both the promise of flow and the challenge of persistence. The climb starts just ten meters left of the iconic tunnel, separating itself with an immediate intensity as the crack’s texture tightens and the rock’s occasional seep tests your grip endurance.

Following your way up the crack, your line splits slightly to the left where a trio of bolts lights a slightly different path near the Noonday Ridge arete, adding a bolt-protected variation to the experience. At just one pitch, this climb delivers a concise but demanding taste of Squamish’s adventurous spirit. The shared anchor with Noonday Ridge offers a convenient top-out, emphasizing smart route planning and efficient descent.

Approaching the climb, expect a relatively direct but rocky path from Tunnel Rock; though straightforward, it requires alert footing as the area’s damp microclimate can make holds slick, particularly in early mornings. The crack itself can hold moisture for hours after rain, so timing your climb for drier periods will greatly improve your experience and safety. Gear-wise, a standard rack with a focus on medium to large cams complements the protection placed around the bolts and chains at the top—essential in anchoring a secure retreat.

While the route's 5.10c rating signals a serious challenge for capable climbers, its brief length means every move counts. Climbers appreciate its combination of crack climbing and bolt-assisted security, making it an engaging mix of bold trad and sport tactics. The route’s location in the Smoky Bluffs offers impressive views of the surrounding forested slopes and distant peaks, grounding the physical exertion in a setting bursting with raw, natural energy.

Whether you’re stepping up from easier climbs or looking to sharpen your crack skills in Squamish’s legendary climbing scene, The Power of Leverage provides a practical, focused test of hand jams, stamina, and mental clarity. Remember to check weather and rock conditions, pack water to stay hydrated, and time your ascent to avoid lingering moisture. This is a climb that rewards preparation and persistence with a swift thrill and a clean send.

Climber Safety

Watch for seepage in the crack, especially after rain—wet holds reduce friction and increase risk. The shared anchor can get crowded, so communicate clearly with other parties. Approach rocks may be slippery in damp conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Aim to climb during dry weather to avoid moisture in the crack.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for better friction on damp rock.

Use a mid-sized cam rack; smaller cams may not fit the crack well.

Share anchors respectfully, as this route uses the Noonday Ridge top belay.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating is challenging yet approachable for intermediate climbers comfortable on hand cracks. The initial section requires sustained finger jams and good body tension, while the bolts offer a brief respite. Compared to nearby Smoke Bluffs routes, The Power of Leverage leans toward crack specialists rather than face climbers.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard rack focusing on medium to large cams for the crack section. The three bolts near the Noonday Ridge arete offer added security. Chains at the top anchor allow for a solid rappel or belay station.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of The Power of Leverage and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

hand crack
bolt-protected
single pitch
trad
damp rock risk
Noonday Ridge