The Original Route at Green Head Cove stands as a gateway to classic, exposed sport climbing on New Brunswick’s rugged coast. This single-pitch climb, stretching roughly 60 feet, demands steady feet and calm nerves as you ascend a smooth slab punctuated by broad ledges that invite brief rests. The climb follows a striking arête, its edges sharp against the sky, drawing you leftward through its final moves to avoid the last couple of bolts—a subtle challenge that reminds you this line rewards both mindfulness and finesse.

Originally established by Tom Anderson as the first bolted route in the Green Head sector, this climb carries an understated legacy. Initially protected by just two bolts and a traditional placement near the top, it has evolved alongside the growing sport climbing community here. Today, four bolts and two rap rings anchor the line, offering a solid yet adventurous protection scheme that respects the natural flow of the rock.

The approach is straightforward but demands respect for the coastal terrain. The Main Cliff’s left section, where Green Head Cove opens to the Atlantic’s raw whispers, sets the scene—rock faces bear the salt air’s imprint, and the wind’s persistent call reminds you this is a wild edge of land. Climbing here, you’re never far from the ocean’s sounds, the breeze teasing your focus as you read the route’s subtle holds.

For climbers preparing to take on The Original Route, footwear with excellent edging ability is essential given the slab’s smoothness, and a moderate level of comfort with exposure will enhance your confidence on the arête. Timing your climb for a calm day will help, as wind gusts can unsettle balance. Hydration and sun protection are worth packing—the climb sits out in the open, where mid-summer sun beats on the stone.

As both a historical piece and a solid introduction to the Green Head climbing experience, this route offers a memorable ascent that remains accessible yet engaging. It’s an excellent opportunity to connect with the region’s climbing roots while enjoying the distinct coastal environment of New Brunswick.

Whether you’re a sport enthusiast seeking a punchy move or a visitor aiming to cross a classic line on your list, The Original Route delivers an experience marked by subtle exposure, precise movement, and a connection to the area’s climbing history. Take your time, keep your eyes on the holds, and let the climb’s rhythm guide you up the rock face.