"The Nose on Duncan's Ridge offers a tight, 50-foot trad climb marked by two distinct variations. Whether you prefer a flowing crack or a bouldery crux, this route blends technical climbing with stunning reservoir views just outside Fort Collins."
Set against the striking backdrop of Horsetooth Reservoir near Fort Collins, Colorado, The Nose is a compact yet demanding trad climb that challenges both your technique and mental grit. This route splits into two key variations, each providing a distinct routefinding puzzle and physical engagement over a modest 50-foot wall. Approaching from Duncan's Ridge, climbers meet a raw granite face that immediately tests your ability to read rock and place protection efficiently.
The left (north) variation eases into the climb, beginning just to the left of a defining roof. You'll work your way through an undercling and negotiate a sharp overhang—the crux—before bending left around a pronounced arete into a continuous crack that leads to the summit. The moves here feel fluid but demand steady footwork and keen balance as you transition from the roof to the crack system.
Alternatively, the right (south) line beckons those ready for a more powerful start. It begins with a bold, bouldery move atop a low roof that pushes your strength and body tension right out of the gate. Following this crux, the climbing shifts into a sequence of blocky, fractured rock before settling into a cleaner crack that waters down to the top. This side carries a punchier feel and requires vigilance due to loose sections, making precise hand and foot placements vital.
Gear is your ally here: with no fixed protection on the wall, careful placements of small to medium nuts and cams are essential. The first tough move on the right variation can be safely armored with a BD #0.4 cam, so make sure your rack includes this size. The granite’s texture gives good friction, but the compact nature of the route leaves little margin for error. Wear shoes with solid edging capability and brace yourself for finding the best balance between powerful reach and delicate foot placements.
The location itself offers more than just the climb. Horsetooth Reservoir’s shimmering waters reflect endless skies while pine-forested ridges frame your approach. Morning sun warms the wall’s face, but afternoon shade cools the granite, making spring and fall the optimum seasons for a comfortable ascent. The area is accessible by a short trail from Duncan's Ridge, with GPS coordinates (40.53352, -105.14488) guiding your approach.
After topping out, descent is straightforward with a short walk-off along the ridge, but watch for loose rock and stay clear of any edges during your retreat. This climb acts as a perfect introduction to trad climbing in the region, balancing manageable technical difficulty with a crisp exposure that feels rewarding without overwhelming.
Whether you choose the left’s flowing crack or the right’s bouldery contention, The Nose on Duncan’s Ridge promises a focused, engaging trad experience close to Fort Collins that hones your skills and rewards with sweeping reservoir views and the satisfying grind of smart climbing.
Beware of loose blocks on the right line above the crux; careful assessment and solid placements protect against rockfall. The absence of fixed gear puts a premium on sound trad skills. Keep caution on the descent as loose scree and cliff edges can pose risks.
Start early to catch morning sun warming the wall, especially in cooler seasons.
Double-check gear placements on the right variation to mitigate blocky rock hazards.
Wear approach shoes with solid traction for the short hike from Duncan’s Ridge.
Plan your descent carefully; the walk-off involves loose terrain near cliff edges.
No fixed gear anchors are present. Bring a rack of small to medium cams and nuts—especially a BD #0.4 to protect the initial move on the right variation. Shoes with good edging ability are recommended due to the granite’s texture.
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