"The Nose is a short, powerful line on Palisade Mountain blending a tough overhang crux with a delicate slab finish. This single-pitch route offers climbers a technical challenge packed into 60 feet of Andean granite, perfect for sharpening precision and strength."
The Nose on Palisade Mountain commands attention despite its brief span—a focused 60-foot burst of climbing that punches far above its length. Located within the rocky embrace of Big Thompson Canyon, near the foothills of Estes Park Valley, this route offers a concentrated dose of adventure where every move counts. From the start, the climb challenges with a tight, overhung lip that demands commitment and precision; a true test of technique almost immediately. This initial roof, a move rated around 7ish, dares you to pull yourself tight and find the balance between power and finesse. Above the roof, the slab section near the second bolt shifts the experience from raw strength to delicate foot placements, requiring steady nerves and careful footwork.
Though short, The Nose’s character is defined by this dynamic transition—explosive at first, then steady and measured. It’s an excellent introduction for climbers looking to blend sport confidence with a touch of traditional anchor setup, as it is protected by two bolts and concludes at a shared two-bolt anchor. The rock here is solid and weathered, typical of Palisade Mountain’s granite, providing reliable friction but reminding you to remain grounded in your movements.
Accessing the climb is straightforward: Palisade Mountain sits prominently along the Big Thompson Canyon corridor, making it an accessible destination for a half-day outing from Estes Park. The approach involves a short hike along rugged, forested terrain that rewards with the scent of pine and the occasional whistle of the canyon breeze. This area is marked by steady elevation and a layered rocky facade that invites climbers seeking that quick but satisfying route.
Practical preparation is key here. The brevity of the climb doesn't exempt it from requiring focused hydration and attention to footware—sticky rubber will aid on the slab, while a bit of chalk can help through the roof’s crux. Timing your ascent for cooler morning hours is advisable to avoid the heat reflecting off the rock surfaces in the afternoon, which can sap energy quickly. Since the anchor is shared and bolted, rappelling or lowering off is convenient, but always double-check your setup.
In essence, The Nose is a compact but vivid chapter in the range of routes around Estes Park. It’s perfect for climbers who appreciate quality over quantity, those who welcome a route combining decisive moves with a crisp wilderness setting. Whether you're aiming to polish your sport climbing skills or just grab a refreshing clip on granite, The Nose delivers a memorable challenge packed into one steep push.
The initial overhang demands confident movement and strong technique—fall potential is high if unprepared. The shared anchor requires careful attention to anchor knots and clean rope management to ensure a safe descent.
Approach in the early morning to avoid heat buildup on exposed granite.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for the slab section near the second bolt.
Bring chalk to manage grip during the powerful roof section.
Check your anchor thoroughly before lowering or rappelling, as it’s a shared setup.
Two bolts protect the route with a shared two-bolt anchor at the top, facilitating quick draws and bowlines for top rope setup.
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