"The Nose delivers a sharp burst of 5.10d sport climbing on an exposed arete in Squamish’s Murrin Park. With eight bolts and a straightforward approach through evergreen firs, this route challenges precision footwork and confident clipping on a clean, varied face."
Climbing The Nose at Murrin Park offers a focused burst of sport climbing that captures the rugged spirit of Squamish. This 80-foot line stakes its claim along a clean arete just right of the moss-covered slab known as A Little Testis, managed by eight well-placed bolts that balance security with adventure. The climb’s single pitch delivers sustained moves rated around 5.10d, challenging both power and precision as you negotiate the varied texture of the rock face. The firs surrounding the approach trail lend a quiet presence, their evergreen boughs filtering dappled light onto your path, while subtle breezes carry the scent of pine and fresh earth.
Access is straightforward: a short hike from the parking lot crosses soft forest floor where needles cushion your every step, with an optional walk around the often slippery moss slab to reach the base of the route directly. This detour adds a layer of dry-footed assurance, especially after wet weather. The Nose stands apart for its blend of natural lines and sport climbing convenience, suited for climbers looking to sharpen their lead skills without committing to multi-pitch logistics.
Gear-wise, the eight bolts provide ample protection, yet the climb demands thoughtful clipping and smooth clipping transitions. Wearing sticky shoes is key for managing the crux sequences on pockets and edges, where body positioning and footwork prove as vital as upper body strength. Climbers should hydrate well and consider timing ascents to the morning hours when the wall first clears lingering shade and warmth builds gradually, optimizing friction.
Despite its concise length, this route rewards focus and deliberate movement, echoing the quiet power of the surrounding forest. Descending is a straightforward rappel or an easy scramble back to the trail, making The Nose an accessible highlight on a day of exploring Murrin Park’s diverse climbing options. For those venturing to Squamish, this route offers both a test and a taste of the area's sport climbing potential, wrapped in the calm vitality of British Columbia’s coastal terrain.
Watch footing on the mossy slab near approach—wet conditions can make it slippery and precarious. Once on the climb, clipping is straightforward but stay aware of rope drag on the arete sections. Descend with a locker for your rappel to ensure anchor security.
Skip the slippery moss slab by hiking around to approach the base dry.
Start climbs in the morning for optimal wall temperature and friction.
Wear sticky rubber shoes to handle pocketed holds on the crux.
Use smooth clipping techniques to avoid wasting energy on the single pitch.
Eight bolts protect The Nose, offering reliable placements along the route. Sticky shoes and precise clipping are essential, as the climb merges technical movement with moderate steepness. Consider bringing quickdraws and a locking carabiner for the rappel descent.
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