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The Merkin: Hands and Fist Trad Climbing on Bishop Peak

San Luis Obispo, California United States
crack climbing
trad protection
single pitch
technical jams
bulge crux
Central Coast climbing
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Merkin
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Engage with The Merkin, a hands-to-fist crack climb on Bishop Peak that blends technical jamming with a compelling bulge crux. This 35-foot trad line offers solid protection and a compact but rewarding challenge for trad climbers stepping up their crack game."

The Merkin: Hands and Fist Trad Climbing on Bishop Peak

The Merkin on Bishop Peak invites climbers into a focused 35-foot trad climb that balances technical jamming with a test of careful footwork. This route delivers a hands-to-fist crack running through the heart of one of San Luis Obispo’s favored climbing spots. Unlike routes that tempt you to rely mostly on face holds, The Merkin demands quality jams and precise placements, rewarding those who commit fully to crack techniques. The climb’s character emerges as you navigate a bulging section midway, where the crack tightens unexpectedly, forcing a crux move that challenges your balance and gear choices.

Below you, the Central Coast’s familiar oak-studded ridges stretch into the distance under a wide California sky. The climb’s rock, typical of Bishop Peak, offers solid edge texture but asks for vigilance: some pro placements may rest on flakes or less secure shields, which can shift under weight. Testing each hold and placement is essential here. The pro rack should include Black Diamond cams from sizes 0.75 to 4, with an extra set in the 2 to 4 size range recommended for the anchor. There are no bolts, so slings and nuts for extending placements will add security.

Succeeding on The Merkin means mastering not just the crack's physical challenge but also reading the subtle cues in the rock—knocking on pro placements before trusting them, choosing jams over face holds, and maintaining steady movement through the bulge. The approach is straightforward, yet the top-out deserves deliberate care. A bush near the summit can snag your gear or slow your rhythm, and loose rock there demands attention while finishing the climb.

For anyone looking to sharpen crack climbing skills in a compact, engaging setting, The Merkin is an accessible yet thoughtful option. It exemplifies Bishop Peak’s blend of moderate difficulty paired with technical payoff. The single pitch may be brief, but it captures the essence of trad climbing: patience, precision, and that satisfying sense of moving up rock with clean protection and controlled risk. Plan your climb for a dry day when the friction is reliable, and pack shoes suited for moderate jamming to get the best grip and comfort.

Finding The Merkin is part of the adventure, located on the Summit Ridge Crack feature at Bishop Peak—a short but rewarding approach from the parking area near downtown San Luis Obispo. The route sits well within reach of a day’s outing, offering an introduction to trad crack climbing without the commitment of a multi-pitch climb. Its modest length means you can fit it easily into a day of exploring other nearby classics on the Central Coast, making it a practical choice for climbers seeking technical variety amid scenic surroundings.

In sum, The Merkin combines a tactile crack experience with straightforward logistics and a pinch of challenge in the bulge. If you’re aiming to improve your trad climbing technique or simply chase a well-protected single pitch, this route at Bishop Peak provides an approachable, character-rich climb that remains firmly rooted in the realities of California’s Central Coast climbing scene.

Climber Safety

Watch the protection carefully—some placements rest on loose flakes that may come off if not tested thoroughly. The top-out requires careful footwork around loose stone and a snag-prone bush; avoid sudden movements that could dislodge debris.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Knock on placements before weighting them to avoid unreliable flakes or shields.

Focus on jamming techniques—don’t rely solely on face holds to progress.

Approach on a dry day for the best friction on crack jams and face holds.

Exercise caution at the top-out; move carefully around loose rock and avoid catching gear in the nearby bush.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8-, The Merkin offers a solid crack climb with a well-defined crux at a bulge that nudges the grade slightly upward. While the overall rating is moderate, the technical demands of clean jams and gear placements call for focused technique rather than brute strength. Compared to similar Bishop Peak climbs like 'Hardly Worth the Trouble', The Merkin adds an extra edge with its crux and requires more deliberate gear assessment.

Gear Requirements

Bring Black Diamond cams in sizes 0.75 to 4, with extras in the 2 to 4 range for building an anchor without bolts. Pack multiple slings for extending placements and setting a clean, secure anchor at the top.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad protection
single pitch
technical jams
bulge crux
Central Coast climbing