HomeClimbingThe Maiden Voyage aka The Red Dihedral

The Maiden Voyage: Exploring the Red Dihedral on Checkerboard Wall

Gunnison, Colorado United States
trad crack
multi-pitch
black canyon
crack climbing
scramble descent
moderate grade
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
The Maiden Voyage aka The Red Dihedral
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Maiden Voyage charts a clear path up the Checkerboard Wall’s west face, blending solid trad climbing with manageable pitches in the rugged Black Canyon of the Gunnison. It offers a balanced entry to canyon climbing, featuring steady crack systems and a classic twilight descent."

The Maiden Voyage: Exploring the Red Dihedral on Checkerboard Wall

The Maiden Voyage, also known as The Red Dihedral, offers a grounded yet inviting introduction to trad climbing in Colorado's Black Canyon of the Gunnison. This route carves a clear line up the narrow west face of the Checkerboard Wall, a striking feature that compels climbers with its steady crack and corner system perched just left of the southwest arete. Approaching the climb, you drop down the Cruise Gully, then bushwhack through thick patches of trees and brush to the base—this initial passage sets a raw tone, the canyon’s rugged personality pressing in from every side.

The first pitch is a measured challenge, often described as the most demanding section. Climbers will pick out a wide, patchy crack and scale just to its left, ascending to a belay below an overhang where a cleaner, right-facing corner opens up. Though rough and loose rock once plagued this segment, recent efforts have improved its condition, smoothing the way for those stepping onto Black Canyon granite for the first time. After the early grunt, the subsequent pitches shine in contrast, showcasing excellent rock and solid climbing techniques.

Pitch two greets you with a short, powerful move over an overhang featuring a flake wedged in the crack, before moving into the thin corner that demands careful footwork and precise hand placements. The chimney that follows provides a slight respite, leading to a stable belay on a comfortable ledge.

From pitch three onward, the route flexes its climbing quality. A broad crack ascends the wall; like a puzzle, you choose to circumnavigate a roof either right or left—each variation carries its own rhythm. The holds here are secure, often rated around 5.7 to 5.8, and the terrain feels straightforward but engaging. Belaying below a large dihedral with double cracks readies you to tackle the next pitch.

Pitch four features an inviting corner and crack system, with solid 5.7 moves that challenge your technique without overreaching difficulty. You'll move fluidly to a second ledge where the rock quality encourages confidence. The final pitch stretches up a wide, easy dihedral, ending at a large ledge dotted with small trees. From here, the scrambling begins: a 3rd-class climb leads to the rim, although some extend the route with a sixth pitch moving left onto a summit block. This final chimney offers a modest test but finishes the traditional climbing section cleanly.

Descent involves an 80-foot rappel from the summit block to the ledge, though the fixed anchor deserves respect—it’s labeled as intimidating. Alternatively, downclimbing the pitch is an option for those with the skills and caution to match. The exit route demands endurance, following a narrow ledge northwest into one of two wooded gullies and ascending through a mix of 3rd and 4th class scrambling. The scramble is peppered with route-finding challenges and a fair amount of bushwhacking, especially if travelers avoid the more technical ridge that offers a more direct, yet exposed, ascent to the rim.

Protection for The Maiden Voyage is standard trad gear with emphasis on a solid rack; a larger 4-inch cam may be necessary for the start of pitch three where placements widen. The line's crack system lends itself well to traditional gear placements, rewarding preparation and experience.

The climb sits in the heart of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, a remote and wild sanctuary famed for its sheer walls and sculpted canyons. The Checkerboard Wall area is less trafficked than main faces, providing quiet and access to unspoiled views of rugged cliffs dropping into shadowed depths.

Facing southwest, the route catches morning sun but offers cool shade in the afternoon, making spring and fall ideal seasons to climb. In summer, the canyon can heat up significantly, so early starts and hydration become more critical. Weather moves quickly here, so preparation for sudden shifts is essential.

The Maiden Voyage blends approachable climbing with classic black granite texture, perfect for climbers craving a taste of the canyon’s character without committing to longer, more intense routes. It holds a steady 5.9- rating, with the crux on pitch two offering a neat technical sequence that punctuates otherwise straightforward climbing. The somewhat moderate grade and pleasant climbing style make it a solid step beyond beginner routes in the area.

Plan for a lengthy descent and a well-paced approach through dense brush. Footwear with good traction and sturdy support is mandatory for scrambling and bushwhacking sections. Bring plenty of water and pack with contingency in mind—the remote setting means cell coverage is spotty and rescue times can be long. Overall, The Maiden Voyage invites climbers to connect with Black Canyon's raw beauty while sharpening essential trad skills in a varied and accessible line.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the first pitch due to lingering loose rock patches and brush. The rappel anchor at the summit block is described as scary—check gear rigorously before descent and consider downclimbing if uncertain. The approach and exit involve bushwhacking and scrambling, both requiring steady footing and route-finding abilities.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat; canyon walls warm quickly in summer.

60-meter ropes allow linking pitches 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 for a more efficient climb.

Prepare for dense brush at the approach and exit—long pants and sturdy footwear help.

The rappel anchor from the summit block can be intimidating; know your descent plan beforehand.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated a 5.9-, The Maiden Voyage feels approachable yet packs a punch around the thin corner crux on pitch two. The overall grade is on the softer side for Black Canyon standards but tests solid crack technique throughout. Climbers used to moderate trad routes in the region will find it consistent with similarly rated climbs nearby, making it a dependable choice for progressing trad skills.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with cams ranging from small to a 4-inch piece, especially to protect the start of pitch three's wider crack. Expect solid placements with occasional tricky spots requiring careful gear selection.

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Tags

trad crack
multi-pitch
black canyon
crack climbing
scramble descent
moderate grade