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The Lost Art of Keeping A Secret

Squamish, Canada
sport climbing
short route
technical start
rough landing
midwall roof
5.10c
sharp edging
Petrifying Wall
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Lost Art of Keeping A Secret
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compact yet technical sport climb on Petrifying Wall, The Lost Art of Keeping A Secret dishes out a challenging bouldery start and a gritty, midwall bolt sequence that rewards precision and strength. Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their 5.10c skills within Squamish’s renowned landscape."

The Lost Art of Keeping A Secret

Carved into the sheer face of Petrifying Wall, The Lost Art of Keeping A Secret offers climbers a concise yet demanding sport route set in the rugged heart of Squamish, British Columbia. This 45-foot climb delivers a powerful punch of technical movement right from the start, where the bouldery opening tests your precision and composure. The landing below commands respect, rough and uneven, urging climbers to engage stick-clipping early to safeguard the first bolt. As you ascend, the line threads through a compelling midwall bolt sequence, culminating beneath a substantial roof feature that marks the route’s crescendo and anchors. The rock’s texture is raw and gritty, providing reliable friction but demanding strong footwork and body positioning. Expect to use dynamic moves and controlled strength as you negotiate the vertical, bolt-protected pitches.

Access is straightforward—Murrin Park’s Petrifying Wall is a well-traveled crag within Squamish’s climbing zone, ensuring a tidy approach trail through forested paths that balance serenity with ease of find. The area’s latitude and longitude put it firmly in the Pacific Northwest’s climbing mecca, where rainfall and seasonal shifts influence the best windows for climbing. Spring through early fall yields the most stable conditions, with cool mornings perfect for warming up on this high-quality route.

Protection-wise, five bolts punctuate the wall, spaced to give a secure rhythm, ending in solid anchor chains equipped with lower-off locks for efficient and safe top-roping or cleaning. While the protection is sport-style and reliable, the unique challenge lies in the first few moves, where the rough landing below makes cautious preparation essential. Experienced climbers will appreciate the combination of pump and finesse this route demands.

Plan your outing with hydration and layering in mind since the Pacific Northwest can shift quickly from sun to drizzle. Footwear with sharp edging capabilities will reward precise foot placements and smearing on the varied rock face. Timing your climb for early daylight hours harnesses the advantage of cooler rock temperatures, reducing sweaty grips and elevating confidence through each move. The Lost Art of Keeping A Secret is perfect for climbers stepping up into the 5.10c range, offering a short but memorable test that sharpens sport climbing skills in a stunning North American outdoor classroom.

Climber Safety

The approach to the first bolt requires caution due to an uneven and rocky landing zone. Falls here can cause injury without proper stick clipping. Also, be mindful of wet conditions on the rock, which can amplify slip hazards, especially around the roof section and footholds.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Stick clip the first bolt to avoid awkward falls on the rough landing below.

Wear shoes with solid edging to handle the sharp, technical footholds.

Arrive early in the day for cooler rock and less traffic on the route.

Check local weather; Squamish’s coastal climate can shift quickly from dry to wet.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating fits the route's combination of bouldery opening moves and sustained midwall climbing, though the grade feels true to the effort required. The crux boulder problem-style start pushes endurance early, which inflates the perceived difficulty slightly above other mid-5.10 climbs in the area. Climbers transitioning into harder grades will find a rewarding challenge here.

Gear Requirements

Five bolts secure this route, spaced to protect each segment of climbing effectively. Anchor chains are equipped with locking biners for safe lowering or building top ropes. Starting with a bouldery move over a rough landing, using a stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended.

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Tags

sport climbing
short route
technical start
rough landing
midwall roof
5.10c
sharp edging
Petrifying Wall