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The Left Side - Classic Trad Climb on The Chief

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
offwidth
trad
single pitch
main crack
roof section
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Left Side
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Left Side is a sharply technical single-pitch trad route on The Chief's granite, blending delicate finger locks with an offwidth finale. Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills in a classic Squamish setting."

The Left Side - Classic Trad Climb on The Chief

Rising boldly along The Chief's imposing granite face, The Left Side challenges climbers with a single pitch of focused, technical trad climbing that rewards calm precision and solid gear placement. This route begins on a slender, slightly overhanging face, demanding careful smearing and finger jams before it eases left beneath a protective roof into the heart of the main crack. The crack itself is a dynamic transition from delicate finger locks to a more spacious offwidth section, testing your versatility on one climb. While the offwidth pitches may look imposing, the difficulty eases to around 5.9 here, offering a welcome breather after the steeper, sustained climbing that leads in.

Squamish’s granite, cool and textured, responds beneath your hands and feet with confidence, and the route’s directional shift means you’re constantly adjusting your body and gear to meet the evolving challenges. The walk-in to The Chief is straightforward—but the climb demands focused preparation: a well-assembled rack of small to medium nuts and a range of cams from .33" aliens to the massive #5 Camalot are essential for safe protection. This gear variety covers the crack’s consistent width changes and ensures security on tricky placements where the rock narrows or flares.

Approaching The Left Side means stepping into one of British Columbia's premier climbing areas, where the steep granite walls rise sharply against crisp mountain air and verdant forest below. The line holds a solid reputation among trad climbers for its technical sequence and rewarding movement, making it a prime introduction to the area’s style or a worthy focus for more experienced climbers seeking a physical, well-protected challenge.

Timing your ascent to avoid peak sunlight is wise. The wall faces west, catching the afternoon rays and warming rapidly, so early starts deliver cooler conditions and firmer rock. After the climb, a short, well-marked descent offers a safe return to the base, avoiding loose terrain and exposed ledges.

As one of Squamish’s standout single-pitch trad routes, The Left Side balances excitement with practicality, inviting climbers who want a taste of solid crack technique without committing to multi-pitch complexity. Whether pushing your limits or refining crack skills, this climb offers a vivid encounter with raw granite and the dynamic flow of the Chief’s classic lines.

Climber Safety

The roof section requires careful protection; placements can be tight and require precise gear sizing. Pay close attention to your anchor placements at the top. The approach and descent are straightforward but watch for loose rock near the base.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the afternoon sun and enjoy cooler granite.

Pack a versatile range of cams from tiny to large for this fluctuating crack.

Focus on solid finger jams before transitioning to the offwidth to conserve energy.

Use your rack sparingly on tricky placements under the roof; trust the quality nuts here.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a grade reflects the sustained thin face climbing leading into the crack, with a clear crux where you pull left under the roof. The offwidth section drops down to about 5.9, offering a relative ease that balances the route well. Climbers familiar with nearby tough crack lines will find this pitch demanding but fair, with no particularly soft moves diluting its character.

Gear Requirements

You'll need a single set of small to medium nuts, plus cams ranging from a black alien (.33") through green alien (.5") up to large pieces like the #5 Camalot. Bringing some extra cams around .75" and 4" sizes will give you options for trickier placements across the crack's varying widths.

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Tags

finger crack
offwidth
trad
single pitch
main crack
roof section