"The Hot Zone stands as a standout single-pitch sport climb in Big Thompson Canyon, blending technical bouldery moves with wide-open views. This 5.9- route demands power and precision atop a dramatic arête, making it a rewarding challenge for climbers hungry for exposure and quality rock."
Perched halfway up the southeast corner of the Boneyard formation, The Hot Zone offers a compelling mix of exposed climbing and sweeping views above the Estes Park Valley. This climb rewards those willing to engage a bouldery start leading into consistent, stirring moves along a sharp arête, where the rock feels alive beneath your fingertips. The approach is an adventure in itself—following the Catacomb trail, subtle terrain guides you to a narrow shelf tucked into the lower tiers of the Boneyard where the route begins. From a vantage point above the valley floor, climbers face a bold first bolt that guards the crux: a move that demands both power and precision but can be skirted with a slightly easier variation to the left.
The climb is short but textured, with six well-placed bolts protecting every move up to a secure two-bolt anchor. Here, the panoramic views stretch wide, inviting a moment to breathe in the alpine air and steady yourself for the descent. The Hot Zone’s rock is solid, but the bouldery start requires careful foot placement and confidence on less-than-vertical terrain. Climbers should arrive ready for close attention to body position and dynamic movement.
After topping out, a single 60-foot rappel returns you safely to the trail. The approach and descent are straightforward but demand mindfulness—uneven terrain and loose rock can lurk near the edge. Timing your climb is essential; the southeast aspect catches the morning sun but offers shade as afternoon wanes. Spring through fall presents the best conditions, avoiding icy holds or slick surfaces common in colder months.
This route is a favorite among locals searching for a quick, exhilarating ascent with dramatic exposure and stunning views. While the grade sits at a claimed 5.9-, the crux hints at a bouldering challenge that might stretch some climbers beyond comfort, rewarding preparation and boldness alike. With moderate protection and an accessible location, The Hot Zone balances adventure and approachability seamlessly. Whether you’re stepping into sport climbing or polishing your technical skills, this climb is a memorable highlight of the Monastery area and a testament to Big Thompson Canyon’s rugged charm.
Watch your footing on the initial shelf and bouldery start—loose rock and exposure can increase risk. The rappel requires a full 60-foot rope; ensure your gear is set up and your anchors are secure to avoid any surprises on descent.
Approach via the Catacomb trail and look for the Saint Sixtus Scoop 5.10b bolt route to locate the start shelf.
Warm up on the adjacent bolt route to prepare for the bouldery opening moves of The Hot Zone.
Climb early in the day to enjoy morning sun on the southeast-facing wall; afternoons bring welcome shade.
Double-check your rappel rope length; a 60-foot rappel drops you cleanly back to the ground.
Six bolts protect the route to a two-bolt anchor. The protection is straightforward and reliable, requiring no additional gear beyond a standard sport rack. Expect some bouldering-style moves near the bottom and a crux move just above the first bolt.
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