HomeClimbingThe Hot Donut

The Hot Donut: A Bold Trad Climb at Mine Hole Crag

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
single pitch
trad climbing
runout
variable rock quality
Boulder Canyon
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Hot Donut
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Hot Donut presents a focused, single-pitch trad climb with an inviting hand crack sequence at Mine Hole Crag, Boulder Canyon. Its blend of technical crack climbing and cautious protection makes it a classic test piece for trad enthusiasts seeking adventure with a practical edge."

The Hot Donut: A Bold Trad Climb at Mine Hole Crag

The Hot Donut offers a concise yet compelling trad climb that challenges climbers with its solitary pitch and a sequence of hand cracks that reward steady technique and courage. Located just above the distinctive cave that marks Mine Hole Crag within Boulder Canyon, this route draws you into a narrow corridor where the rock takes on a raw but engaging personality. The climb begins on a faint, wandering crack that tests your patience and footwork, leading to a cleaner, imposing hand crack about thirty feet up. Here, your hands find a perfect purchase, inviting you to move confidently as you follow the crack toward the summit. The rock quality demands attention—some sections are thin and feature less secure holds—making protection placements from small to large cams essential to your comfort and safety. The line culminates in a satisfying finish on solid hands, granting a sense of accomplishment that belies its modest length.

Approaching The Hot Donut is straightforward, yet crossing the rugged terrain of Mine Hole Crag calls for careful footing. The corridor setting creates a focused climbing experience, sheltering you from stray winds but offering less sun exposure, so plan your ascent during warmer months when the rock is dry and inviting. The route’s single pitch spans approximately 60 feet with a reliable rappel using fixed bolt anchors on the adjacent Sofa Kingdom climb, allowing for a smooth and safe descent. This proximity of rappel points is a practical advantage, letting you pack light but still have solid options for retreat.

Protection ranges up to a #3 Camalot, with an emphasis on good placements in thin cracks where rock quality can be variable. Anticipate some tricky sections and bring a careful eye for balanced gear placement to maintain confidence on less-than-perfect stone. The route’s "5.8- R" rating hints at an accessible grade peppered with runout and some risk, making it best suited for climbers comfortable with placing their gear as well as managing occasional exposure. This is an adventure that blends a touch of gritty realism with classic hand crack climbing, providing a rewarding experience for those ready to engage with the rock’s natural quirks.

Beyond the climb itself, the wider Boulder Canyon area offers a rugged playground known for its accessible climbing and beautiful mountain views. Mine Hole Crag stands out for its distinctive cave and corridor features, encouraging climbers to read the rock and move deliberately. Plan your day with hydration and sun protection in mind, as parking and approach trails can be exposed, especially in summer months. For anyone seeking a solid trad challenge that combines technical crack climbing with a grounded, practical approach to protection and descent, The Hot Donut strikes a strong balance between adventure and logic—the kind of route that sharpens skills and rewards focus.

Climber Safety

Rock quality varies, especially on the thin crack leading to the hand crack. Protection can be sparse in these sections, so assess each placement carefully and avoid relying on loose or detached holds. The rappel anchors on Sofa Kingdom are fixed and reliable but double-check your rappel setup before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the main trail to Mine Hole Crag, then locate the cave beneath the climbing corridor.

Plan your climb on dry days; wet rock can be particularly slippery in the hand crack section.

Rappel using the bolt anchors on Sofa Kingdom to the right of the route for a safe and straightforward descent.

Wear sturdy shoes with good edging ability to handle thin cracks and rough terrain on approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8- R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- R rating indicates a climb that feels approachable but demands respect, with runouts and sections of questionable rock requiring careful gear placement. The crux centers around committing to the hand crack after the initial face and thin crack, where confidence and steady hands separate those who cruise from those who hesitate.

Gear Requirements

Bring standard trad rack including cams up to #3 Camalot. Expect placements in thinner cracks and variable rock quality—focus on solid, well-placed gear especially early on and near the hand crack.

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Tags

hand crack
single pitch
trad climbing
runout
variable rock quality
Boulder Canyon