HomeClimbingThe Great Game

The Great Game: A Classic Trad Climb in Squamish

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
hand crack
long pitches
bolted belays
high protection
granite
multi-pitch
classic route
lieback
Squamish
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
The Great Game
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Great Game offers a rewarding four-pitch trad climb that challenges with steep cracks, juggy liebacks, and reliable protection. A classic Squamish route that balances physical demands and steady gear placements for an accessible but memorable alpine granite experience."

The Great Game: A Classic Trad Climb in Squamish

The Great Game stands as a quintessential trad climb within the rugged Squamish landscape, where sheer granite walls challenge you with a compelling sequence of moves and a thoughtful gear layout. This four-pitch route stretches roughly 400 feet, rewarding climbers with varied terrain that balances strenuous liebacks, finger jams, and sustained crack systems. The first pitch greets you with a long, steep push above the forest line, where a moderate lieback evolves into a technical finger crack. The rock feels solid underfoot and hands, yet the blank section near the start demands patience and precise footwork. Protection here is straightforward but essential; a standard rack loaded with nuts and TCUs in hand sizes ensures confidence on the route. The pitch climbs easily enough for its 5.10d rating, with the crux tucked into the finger and hand crack sequences, making you work the details rather than brute strength.

After the initial technical effort, the second pitch relaxes into a 5.8, featuring a low angled crack that bends up and right. This pitch offers a chance to recover but remains engaging with bomber gear placements and steady movement. A well-protected belay station awaits at the base of the next steeper section, ready to secure the leader before the climbing intensifies again.

Pitch three ups the ante with a 5.10c rating, rounding a corner where the terrain tightens and the moves sharpen. A single bolt guards the crux here, blending naturally with the solid hand crack that demands precise gear placements and careful foot sequencing. The exposure builds gradually, but the sound protection and reliable holds encourage sustained focus. The final moves nearing the anchor introduce a touch of excitement, putting your balance and commitment on display before reaching a roomy belay set among the granite features.

The summit push, pitch four, is steep and lively at 5.10c, offering juggy holds and an exhilarating rhythm past a couple of bolts. One bolt near the start shows age and should be treated cautiously, but otherwise, the route maintains near-perfect protection. After the bolts, the climb eases into a long 5.8 ramp that trends right, trading intensity for flowing movement and a chance to appreciate Squamish’s stunning granite up close. As you reach the anchor, the accomplishment of the climb is clear. The Great Game captures the essence of trad climbing here — a test of technique, endurance, and mental focus intertwined with high-quality natural protection.

Approaching the route requires navigating Squamish’s well-worn trails, where granite boulders and sparse forest make the hike in straightforward but packed with sensory memories — the scent of pine, the clatter of distant waterfalls, and the cool mountain air filling your lungs. Packing plenty of water and being mindful of late afternoon sun can make or break your day. The descent calls for a series of rappels down clean, wide paths, each anchoring securely to fixed gear, but it’s essential to stay alert for loose rock and spot where slings might have weathered over time.

Prepare for a climbing day that balances challenge with accessibility, where careful gear selection and a measured pace unlock the secrets of one of Squamish’s enduring playgrounds. The Great Game is ideal for climbers ready to push into sustained 10s with solid trad skills in hand and a hunger for well-protected, varied crack climbing that leaves you feeling earned, not exhausted.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of the aging bolt on pitch four; while most fixed gear is solid, always test placements, especially after wet weather. Loose rock can appear near belays and the descent rappel stations, so wear a helmet and double-check anchor slings for wear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and crowded belays.

Check the condition of the first bolt on pitch four before trusting it fully.

Wear sticky but supportive climbing shoes for crack climbing and liebacks.

Pack extra water, as the approach trail offers few reliable sources.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c/d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c/d rating sits comfortably with the route's features. The first pitch feels somewhat lenient for the grade, with the finger crack and early hand crack holding the crux. Pitch three tightens the difficulty slightly with sustained moves and a delicate bolt-protected crux. Overall, it offers a consistent challenge without sudden spikes, ideal for climbers stepping up into sustained 10s. Comparatively, it’s a fair but engaging climb alongside other Squamish classics such as The Grand Wall or The Apron.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack with nuts and doubles of TCUs up to size #3. Slings are essential for the long first pitch to extend placements and reduce rope drag. Specialized finger-sized cams will protect the crux sequences on pitches one and three.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
long pitches
bolted belays
high protection
granite
multi-pitch
classic route
lieback
Squamish