"A ground-level trad climb on Old School Wall with a blocky start and natural protection, this single pitch suits climbers looking to sharpen crack and face climbing skills in a serene forest setting. Its reliable anchors and modest difficulty make it a staple for Ontario’s trad enthusiasts."
Set against the stark, weathered face of Old School Wall located in the heart of Devil's Glen, The Grand Master, The Bar Tender and the Clown offers a straightforward yet satisfying single-pitch trad climb. From the moment you grip the blocky start, the rock challenges both your balance and your route reading skills. The climb begins with solid holds leading to a small ledge where a bolt offers a rare moment of security before you continue following a natural crack intertwined with face features. The line demands reliable footwork as the terrain shifts between cracks that invite finger jams and open face holds that test your precision.
Although modest in height, this route rewards attention to detail and patience. The surrounding woodland whispers with the slow sway of the forest canopy, while the ground beneath betrays the occasional scurry of forest life — a quiet reminder of the remote yet accessible nature of this climbing area. The rock, shaped by years of frost and sun, offers a tactile texture that’s both firm and rough, enhancing grip but requiring careful movement to protect skin and gear.
Despite a single bolt protecting the lower section, this is unmistakably a traditional climb that asks you to trust your placements and read the cracks carefully for secure gear. The anchors at the top are straightforward, making the descent efficient but requiring your full focus to clean the line safely.
Old School Wall, perched in the southern stretches of Ontario’s bouldering and rock climbing network, provides a welcoming playground for those seeking a low-angle, accessible trad route to fine-tune technique and enjoy the crisp air and earthy scent of the forest floor. Approach trails are well-trodden yet maintain a natural feel, winding through towering pines that offer shelter from stifling heat during summer climbs.
For climbers looking for a manageable challenge without needing a multi-pitch commitment, this route is an excellent choice. It blends simple protection, manageable difficulty, and the quiet satisfaction of climbing in a rustic but maintained setting. With an average rating of 5.5, it’s perfect for beginners stepping into traditional trad or those wanting a mellow day out with friends.
Gear up with midsize cams and a handful of nuts to cover tricky placements while relying on that lone bolt for added security near the bottom. Remember to scout your protection carefully ahead of committing and respect the natural environment by sticking to established trails and minimizing impact.
The remote feel of Devil’s Glen with its steep walls and shaded forests creates a sense of adventure without the need for strenuous hiking or complex logistics. The climb can be enjoyed year-round, though spring and fall offer the best balance of dry conditions and comfortable temperatures. Summer afternoons bring warmth, but the forest canopy softens the sun's glare, keeping your hands cool on the rock.
Descending is straightforward from the anchor stage; bring sufficient slings and rappel gear to lower yourself safely. The descent trail weaves back through mixed hardwoods and gives an opportunity to reflect on the climb — the moves and decisions — as well as the quiet beauty of this lesser-known climbing enclave.
Though the bolt near the ledge section provides some protection, many placements rely on proper cam and nut sizes; ensure your rack is complete. The rock can be unforgiving to poorly placed gear, so double-check each piece. The descent requires a rappel, so confirm anchors and knots before lowering.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures under the tree cover.
Keep gear light but sufficient for crack protection.
Check rock condition after rain; drying times can vary with shade.
Leave no trace: stick to trails to preserve the undergrowth.
Carry a standard trad rack emphasizing midsize cams and nuts. One bolt near the ledge section offers limited fixed protection, but most placements demand confident gear placement skills. Anchors at the top are solid and designed for a clean rappel.
Upload your photos of The Grand Master, The Bar Tender and the Clown and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.