"The Gloaming offers a focused 80-foot sport climb in Cougar Canyon with a challenging crux near the top. This route combines reliable limestone holds and solid protection, ideal for climbers aiming for a sharp 5.10b/c test in Bow Valley’s quiet forested setting."
Carved along the rugged limestone cliffs of Cougar Canyon near the Crowbar sector, The Gloaming invites climbers with a punchy, expertly bolted pitch that rewards precision and composure. Set on the left flank of the canyon, just a stone’s throw from the familiar "Made in the Shade" route, this climb cuts straight upward with a straightforward approach, but don’t mistake the initial ease for simplicity. As you leave the ledge behind, the rock shifts to a textured, reliable surface that feels alive under your fingertips—grainy yet solid, demanding careful footwork and confident hands.
The crux lurks higher up, a deft sequence that tests your finger strength and body tension. It requires deliberate movement above cleanly spaced bolts, making gear placement the last worry before executing moves that push the grade to a sharp 5.10b/c. Despite the challenge, climbers often find it enjoyable and satisfying, as the route rewards attentiveness with an engaging rhythm rather than brute force.
The 80-foot single pitch offers a swift but focused climbing experience, ideal for those who appreciate technical sport climbs with reliable protection. Nine well-placed bolts lead efficiently to a secure anchor, offering peace of mind on every pull. The area’s limestone tends to hold friction well, so shoes with sticky rubber will serve best, while a harness and standard sport rack are all you need to tackle the route safely.
Cougar Canyon’s surroundings complement the climb’s intensity with a quiet natural backdrop where the whisper of the nearby creek moves alongside the wind brushing the foliage. The approach is straightforward, set in the heart of Bow Valley’s wilderness yet accessible enough for a half-day outing. Sunlight flickers intermittently through the trees, creating a dance of light and shadow that shifts as you climb, adding a subtle but immersive visual texture.
Planning your session here means setting your focus on timing: aim for morning or late afternoon ascents when the sun is softer and temperatures more manageable. Midday sun can heat the rock, which, combined with the sustained crux, may sap your stamina.
Local wisdom suggests coming prepared with plenty of water, solid climbing shoes with excellent grip, and patience to analyze the crux moves. Given its single-pitch nature, The Gloaming is perfect for climbers stretching their limits without committing to extended endurance routes. Whether you're sharpening your sport climbing technique or seeking a quick but challenging outing, this route delivers an accessible yet compelling test of skill amid one of Alberta’s finest natural playgrounds.
Despite solid bolting, the crux involves delicate moves where slipping could lead to a swing; maintain focused body tension and avoid rushing. The rock is generally good, but watch for occasional pockets with loose edges near the top. The approach path is well marked, but trail sections can be slick after rain.
Approach early to avoid direct midday sun warming the rock excessively.
Wear shoes with excellent friction to handle the limestone texture.
Bring plenty of water as the forested trail offers limited natural springs.
Check for ongoing construction in the area before heading out to avoid detours.
This route features 9 bolts leading to a secure anchor, allowing climbers to focus fully on movement without second-guessing protection placement. Standard sport rack suffices, with sticky shoes recommended for optimal traction.
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