"The Ghost is a demanding trad climb on Petrifying Wall that cuts a direct, finger-crack-laden line above Dead on Arrival’s approach. It offers technical sequences with tricky gear placements, set against the raw granite of Squamish’s renowned walls."
The Ghost carves its line up the imposing Petrifying Wall, presenting climbers with a raw and direct alternative to the nearby Dead on Arrival route. This single-pitch trad climb demands sharp focus and precise protection skills on a route where the rock seems alive—offering a sequence of finger cracks and seams that challenge both stamina and technical finesse. The climb begins with a steady ramp and the famously hard-to-protect dihedral shared with Dead on Arrival. But rather than moving right, The Ghost cuts straight upward into a steeper terrain where the rock narrows into a finger crack labyrinth. This section offers several crux moves that test finger strength and body positioning against tight seams and delicate smears.
Above, the protection looses its reliability. High placements can be tricky to secure, forcing a commitment to careful gear management as the line narrows. A glue-in bolt provides a reassuring backup, but the route keeps you close to the edge, both mentally and physically. Nearby, a bolt belonging to the neighboring Rampage climb is visible off to the left, a reminder of the crowded reality of Squamish’s classic walls.
Located in Murrin Park’s Petrifying Wall, The Ghost benefits from the area's towering vertical facade, where dappled sunlight filters through towering cedars and firs, casting shifting shadows that play off the granite’s textured face. The smell of damp earth and pine needles lingers in the air, while distant echos of the nearby Howe Sound add an audial layer to the experience. The climb demands careful attention to detail, and preparation is key—you’ll want to pack a rack heavy on smaller cams and nuts, with extra gear in the 0 to 1 Camelot range, to build secure anchors on the finicky cracks. A particularly helpful offset piece often works well on the more shallow placements.
Access to the Petrifying Wall is straightforward from Murrin Provincial Park, a popular climbing and outdoor recreation area just north of Squamish. The approach trail winds through forested slopes for about 15 minutes, featuring well-maintained stepped paths and loose rock near the base. It’s best to start early in the day to avoid crowds and to climb while the rock is cool and dry, especially since the southern exposure heats up quickly in the afternoon.
After topping out The Ghost, a simple walk off via established trails returns you to the approach area within 20 minutes, avoiding any need for rappelling. This allows for a smooth transition back to camp or the car. Squamish’s climate means the climbing season peaks from late spring through early fall, so timing your visit accordingly will ensure optimal rock conditions and a vibrant outdoor community buzzing with energy around you.
The Ghost stands out as a compelling choice for climbers looking to push their trad skills on challenging cracks, balanced by practical approach logistics and accessible descent routes. It’s a route where the rock demands respect and precision, yet rewards with the raw thrill of climbing Squamish’s legendary granite face.
The upper dihedral and cracks require careful gear placement; some pro slots are shallow or tricky, so double-check placements for security. Loose or runout sections demand confidence and caution. Avoid climbing after rain as the granite becomes slippery, increasing fall risk.
Start early to climb on cool, dry rock before afternoon sun heats up the wall.
Pack multiple small cams and offset nuts for the tricky finger and thin crack placements.
The approach trail is well-marked but watch for loose rock near the base.
Descend by walking off via established trails—no rappel required.
Bring a trad rack loaded with small cams and nuts, especially pieces in the #0 to #1 Camelot range. The crack placements get tight and occasionally shallow, so be prepared for some delicate gear placements. There’s also a glue-in bolt high on the route that offers backup security.
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