HomeClimbingThe French Connection

The French Connection at Kingston Crag

Kingston, Canada
sport
single pitch
chimney
granite
reliable protection
moderate approach
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The French Connection
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"At Kingston Crag’s Jester Wall, The French Connection presents a single-pitch, well-protected 5.9 climb that offers a fluid, left-leaning line through solid granite. A perfect route for sport climbers seeking smooth movement and reliable protection in a stunning natural setting."

The French Connection at Kingston Crag

The French Connection offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging ascent on Kingston Crag’s renowned Jester Wall. Approaching this route, your fingers graze the cool granite as the line pulls gently left, inviting a steady rhythm rather than fierce battle. The climb starts in the same place as Err to the Throne, but diverges after the fourth bolt, guiding you slightly leftward where a chimney awaits—a natural gateway to the Main Wall. Step up through this inviting passage, then resume a smooth, easy climb that leans gradually to the left. The rock’s texture feels reassuring underhand and juggy holds encourage a confident pace, making the line accessible to climbers who appreciate movement over brute strength. You’ll clip seven bolts along the 90-foot stretch, smoothly linking protection without excessive clipping stress.

The scenery here grounds you in the stark beauty of New Brunswick’s rugged granite cliffs, with panoramic views that reward your effort at the two-bolt anchor atop the route. The air carries a crispness common to this region, punctuated by distant rustling leaves and the occasional bird call that breaks the silence. This route suits spring through fall, when the rock is dry and friction is at its best.

For sport climbing enthusiasts seeking a solid 5.9 experience, The French Connection strikes a balanced chord: challenging enough to engage yet accessible enough to encourage flow. This is a climb where technique and timing outshine brute force, ideal for those fine-tuning their lead skills or simply seeking a confident climb with reliable protection. The route’s bolting is well spaced but approachable, offering natural rests and no awkward transitions.

Bolts and rap rings are in place, making descent straightforward: after topping out, a comfortable rap back down the route keeps your exit predictable and safe. The access to Kingston Crag itself is well marked, with a moderate approach that rewards you with stunning cliffside exposure and a sense of solitude rarely found on busier crags.

To prepare, wear shoes with solid edging capability, stay hydrated on warmer days, and consider starting early to avoid afternoon sun on the east-facing walls. Weather in this region can turn quickly, so pack layers and check local conditions before stepping out. Whether you’re sharpening sport skills or enjoying a mellow afternoon climb, The French Connection offers a clear line through bold scenery and quality rock, perfect for a refreshing dose of adrenaline and calm.

Climber Safety

While the route is well bolted, pay close attention at clipping points after the chimney where a slight fall could swing you wide. Also, verify that your rappel setup is secure as the descent uses fixed rap rings on high-angle granite.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon sun heating the rock.

Rock shoes with precise edging will aid on the chimney section.

Check weather forecasts as sudden showers can make granite slippery.

Bring a 70-meter rope to ensure easy rappelling from the two-bolt anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating sits true with a moderate challenge that emphasizes technique over power. Climbers familiar with sport climbing will find the grade approachable but requiring some focus on clipping efficiently and managing the left-leaning moves after the chimney.

Gear Requirements

Seven bolts protect the entire 90-foot climb, with two rap rings installed at the anchor for a safe and straightforward rappel. Expect solid placements along the route with no need for additional gear.

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Tags

sport
single pitch
chimney
granite
reliable protection
moderate approach