HomeClimbingThe Feather

The Feather: A Bold 5-Pitch Trad Climb in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad crack
multi-pitch
5.11d
technical
exposed
morning sun
Length: 550 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
The Feather
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Feather delivers five pitches of engaging trad climbing on Squamish’s rugged quartzite, featuring a standout 5.11d pitch that tests technique and nerve. This route blends exposure, technical cracks, and stunning views into one memorable ascent."

The Feather: A Bold 5-Pitch Trad Climb in Squamish

The Feather stands out as a compelling challenge tucked into the rugged quartzite walls of Slhanay, just beyond the buzzing heart of Squamish, British Columbia. This five-pitch trad route spreads across roughly 550 feet of vertical terrain, delivering a climbing experience that escalates in intensity and character with each pitch. At the core lies the namesake 'Feather' pitch, an exceptional 5.11d test-piece that pushes climbers into a realm of technical finesse and bold placements. As you ascend, the rock’s texture transforms beneath your fingertips, offering solid edges and cracks that demand precise footwork and confident hand jams. The setting is raw and wild—pine needles scatter the approach trail, while the scent of fresh cedar fills the air, grounding every move with a deep-seated connection to the coastal wilderness.

Access begins with a short, spirited hike through forest paths that balance ease with early glimpses of the sheer walls above. The trail itself is straightforward, though carrying full trad gear adds a sense of purpose and weight. Once on the route, protection is crucial: a well-rounded rack featuring nuts and a double set of cams, including the key #4 Camalot, ensures you can safely guard the cruxes and varying crack widths. The route suits climbers who appreciate both technical crack climbing and the mental game of placing their own gear while reading the nuances of the rock.

The Feather’s rating—5.11d—feels earned, particularly on the second pitch where the rock challenges your balance and finger strength with a sequence of demanding moves on thinner holds. The pitches that follow pulse with equal parts varied climbing and exposure, each rewarding your efforts with sweeping views of the Howe Sound fjord shimmering below. The prevailing northwest aspect means the route catches the morning light before slipping into afternoon shade, making spring or fall the best seasons to climb, when temperatures are moderate and the rock dries quickly after coastal rains.

A descent calls for a calm, careful rappel down established anchors, with at least two abseils to return to the base, so double-check ropes and rigging beforehand. Keep an eye out for loose debris along the exit trail and remain mindful of the fragile natural environment surrounding this outdoor cathedral.

Whether you’re here to sharpen your trad skills or simply soak in one of Squamish’s finer multi-pitch climbs, The Feather offers a well-balanced blend of athleticism, route-finding, and breathtaking natural scenery. Prepare well, respect the rock, and be ready for a climb that commands your full attention.

Climber Safety

The route requires careful gear placements on some tenuous edges, especially at the crux. Loose rock is minimal, but remain vigilant during the descent rappels, as anchors require thorough inspection. Approach trail can be slippery when wet—use sturdy footwear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length550 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy morning light on the route before it slips into shade.

Check weather closely—early spring and fall provide the best climbing conditions.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to manage the technical 5.11d moves effectively.

Plan for two rappels on descent; bring extra webbing or cordelette for anchors.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11d, The Feather challenges climbers with sustained technical moves and thin crack sequences, especially on the second pitch which serves as the route’s crux. The grade sits firmly in the upper-intermediate advanced range for Squamish, demanding solid crack technique and confident gear placements. Compared to other local classics, this route’s 5.11d pitch feels appropriately stiff, rewarding precise footwork and balance over brute strength.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack including nuts, a double set of cams, and be sure to include a #4 Camalot for the wide sections on the crux pitch.

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Tags

trad crack
multi-pitch
5.11d
technical
exposed
morning sun