"The Devil's Pitchfork offers a fresh, single-pitch sport climb perched above El Potrero Chico’s famed routes. With 135 feet of bold limestone and a choice of variations, it challenges climbers with varied sequences and a steady technical crux."
Rising sharply against the towering limestone walls of El Potrero Chico, The Devil's Pitchfork invites climbers into a single-pitch, 135-foot test of technique and endurance. Located about 75 feet above its iconic neighbor, Evil Shenanigans, this route stands out with a raw edge of freshness—still catching stray tufts of grass and quiet shadows of small plants that remind you it’s a relatively new challenge on this legendary Mexican crag.
The climb’s defining feature is its choice: stay on the right-hand arete for direct, sustained moves or veer left about seven bolts up to access a subtle variation that offers nuanced sequences and a mental reprieve. As you ascend, the rock’s texture shifts, some sections smooth, others offering sharp edges that demand precise footwork and steady hands. The climb’s moderate 5.10c rating hints at the technical nature of the moves, with the crux sitting in the upper half where focus meets stamina.
Protection is entirely bolted, favoring sport climbers who rely on these fixed points to push the limits safely. A subrap anchor sits at the top, essential given the length and position of the route, allowing a smooth and secure rappel back to the ground. Under the hot Nuevo Leon sun, timing your climb in early morning or later afternoon brings relief as the wall’s east-west orientation bathes climbers in shifting light and retreating heat.
Approaching The Devil's Pitchfork means a short hike from El Potrero Chico’s main trailhead, winding past well-trodden paths and familiar faces of climbers gearing up for their next project. The route’s independence from nearby climbs offers a quieter platform to focus, far enough from troves of groups bustling the area. For those gearing up, bring shoes that handle sharp limestone edges with confident precision and double-check your quickdraws. Water bottles should not be overlooked—hydation is critical in this arid zone, where dry air tempts dehydration.
Ultimately, The Devil's Pitchfork is a balancing act between raw natural conditions and calculated risk, rewarding climbers who seek both the thrill of fresh rock and the familiarity of sport protection. This climb captures the spirit of El Potrero Chico: bold, accessible, and alive with the promise of a sharp encounter with the mountain.
Despite being fully bolted, parts of the route may have loose vegetation near bolts, so remain vigilant when clipping. The subrap anchor is essential for descent, as downclimbing is not recommended due to exposure and rock condition. Also, avoid climbing during peak midday sun to reduce risk of heat exhaustion.
Start early or late to avoid the harsh midday sun on the wall.
Check for grass near clip points since the route is relatively new.
Bring plenty of water — Nuevo Leon’s dry climate can dehydrate fast.
Use the subrap anchor for a safe and controlled rappel descent.
Fully bolted sport route with seven bolts leading to a variation; carries a subrap anchor for secure descent. Climbing shoes with good edging capabilities recommended along with adequate quickdraws.
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