The Critic - A Solitary Climb with Valley Vistas in California's High Desert

Barstow, California
single pitch
sport climbing
east facing
desert
ridge approach
views
moderate hike
high desert
Length: 120 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
New Jack City
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Critic stands as a singular route offering varied climbing challenges paired with expansive views of New Jack Valley. Its accessible afternoon approach makes it a rewarding destination for climbers seeking both silence and spectacle in California's high desert."

The Critic - A Solitary Climb with Valley Vistas in California's High Desert

Situated in the sweeping expanse of California's High Desert, The Critic offers an engaging climb defined by its solitude and stunning vantage points. This is a singular route that commands attention—not by its multiplicity but by the quality of the challenge and the generous views it grants. The ascent unfolds along the eastern face, where the rock’s texture varies enough to keep a climber mentally engaged while the landscape stretches wide below. Above New Jack Valley, the route invites climbers to slow their pace and absorb the rhythms of this remote desert ridge.

The approach sets the tone for what’s to come — a deliberate, sunlit walk that follows the same path as the Deadbolt Wall. From the ridge, you bear left, moving south along a series of slender spines that parallel the Deadbolt’s rock face. The trail meanders across a modest plateau that softly contours the ridge-line, and soon, The Critic appears on your right, basking in the sun-facing east aspect. The hike itself is an ideal afternoon venture, offering just enough movement to wake your muscles without exhausting them before the climb.

At 3,797 feet elevation, the air here carries a dry crispness typical of the High Desert, enhancing grip and helping climbers focus on their moves. The single pitch climb balances challenge with accessibility. The climbing varies, testing adaptability and providing an intimate experience with the rock. The route’s grading peaks at 5.12b, presenting a solid test for climbers ready to push their limits but without the clutter of dozens of routes to wade through. Among the classic climbs here, The Critic itself stands out as the defining line.

While not bolted with countless fixed anchors or overwhelming in scale, this climb rewards patience and precision. The views—the true prize—extend across the entire New Jack Valley. From your vantage point, the valley floor and distant ridges unfold in a vista that offers the quiet luxury of being slightly removed from the busier climbing hubs.

The climbing community notes the area’s offers a distinctly practical experience with a clear focus on quality over quantity. Due to its elevation and east-facing aspect, morning and late afternoon are the best windows for your climb, especially to avoid midday heat when desert sun intensifies. Weather here tends to be dry with sporadic precipitation, mostly concentrated in colder months, making spring through early fall the prime climbing season.

Gear-wise, a sport rack suited to 5.12 difficulties is sufficient—no extensive trad gear necessities are documented for this route. The approach requires sensible footwear and a moderate fitness level, given the ridge walking and terrain. The modest height of the route means rappelling is straightforward but stay cautious on descent, which follows an accessible downclimb and ridge trail back toward the base.

This isolated crag is a quiet jewel within the larger New Jack City cluster near Barstow. It offers a unique experience for climbers who appreciate a reflective time on the rock with a minimal crowd and a direct connection to landscape and challenge.

Whether you’re building strength or seeking a climbing escape that pairs effort with reward, The Critic provides a direct invitation. Classic or otherwise, the climb demands your full attention, delivers satisfying movement, and ends with a view that stretches beyond the climb itself.

Climber Safety

The approach involves ridge walking with some exposure; watch for loose rocks on the descent downclimb and stay alert to shifting footing. The wall faces east, so sun exposure increases quickly in the later part of the day. Drink plenty of water and protect against sunburn.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Same approach trail as the Deadbolt Wall; follow ridge spines south to locate The Critic on the right.

Climb in the morning or late afternoon for optimal shade and avoid desert heat at midday.

Carry enough water and sun protection—desert sun can be strong despite cooler air at elevation.

The descent is a straightforward downclimb along the ridge; take care with loose rock near the top.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Critic’s 5.12b rating reflects a challenging yet achievable test for climbers comfortable at the grade. The area's overall difficulty is regarded as fairly straightforward with no reputation for sandbagging or unusually stiff grades. It fits well alongside other High Desert climbs where technique and composure on varied moves secure success rather than raw power.

Gear Requirements

A single pitch sport climb requiring standard sport climbing gear suitable for 5.12b difficulty. No indication of trad gear needed. The approach is shared with the Deadbolt Wall, so sturdy hiking shoes recommended for moderate ridge walking.

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Tags

single pitch
sport climbing
east facing
desert
ridge approach
views
moderate hike
high desert