"The Clown's Ass offers a focused trad challenge along the right-slanting arete of Cosmic Lights. With a compact 40-foot pitch, scruffy features, and solid protection, it invites climbers to test their skills in Vancouver Island’s dynamic sandstone setting."
On the southern edge of Vancouver Island, where rugged cliffs meet expansive skies, The Clown's Ass juts out along the right-slanting arete of Cosmic Lights, promising a brief but adrenaline-filled trad climb. This single-pitch route, measuring roughly 40 feet, challenges climbers with its moderate 5.9 rating and a scruffy middle section that demands both steady footwork and confident gear placements. The climb begins with a carefully judged move to reach the first bolt—stick clipping is highly recommended to save energy and maintain focus early on. Four pieces of mixed protection will keep you secure as you navigate the subtle features and occasional flakes that define the route's texture. The final moves lead up to three bolts fixed with chains at the anchors, offering a reassuring sense of safety after the exposed arete traverse.
The approach to Cosmic Lights is straightforward, making this route an accessible option for climbers eager to experience Vancouver Island’s diverse rockscape. The rock itself is a gritty, aged sandstone that offers solid friction but tests your ability to adapt to occasionally loose sections, especially around the scruffier midsection. The arete’s orientation catches the afternoon sun, warming the rock and drying it quickly after rain, so midday to late afternoon climbs are ideal during the typical climbing season from spring through early autumn.
Vancouver Island’s cool Pacific breezes accompany every move, while the nearby forest seems to watch, wind whispering through towering firs and cedars. The route’s moderate length makes it a perfect warm-up or a standalone climb for a day of exploring the South Cliffs area. Nearby Victoria’s amenities and cozy lodgings mean you won’t have to trek far to recover after your climb, making The Clown's Ass an inviting blend of wilderness challenge and practical convenience.
Protection demands versatility: bring a range of cams for the mixed placements and prepare to navigate the scruffiness without hesitation. The route’s exposed arete encourages a focused pace, rewarding climbers who respect the rock’s subtle impermanence. Descending is simple, with a rappel anchored to the triple-bolt station, but always double-check gear before committing.
For climbers of all levels wanting to experience Vancouver Island’s blend of exposed edges and fine sandstone texture, The Clown’s Ass delivers a brief but memorable engagement. It’s a route that tests your trad skills amid compelling surroundings and leaves you ready for more exploration in one of Canada’s most accessible climbing destinations.
The middle section’s scruffy features can hide loose rock—test all holds carefully and maintain controlled movements. The fixed bolts at the anchors are reliable, but approach anchors with routine care. Avoid climbing when rock is wet or cold to minimize slip risk.
Stick clip the first bolt to save energy and reduce risk.
Expect a scruffy section mid-route—steady footwork is essential.
Climb in afternoon sunlight for the best warmth and rock friction.
Double-check anchor bolts before setting up your rappel.
Bring a mixed rack with a focus on smaller cams for tricky placements. Stick clip the first bolt to avoid a strenuous early move. Three bolts with chains secure the anchors at the top.
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