"The Candle Stick is a focused single-pitch trad climb on a solitary pinnacle within Upper Dream Canyon. Its technical capstone crux and solid gear placements make it an ideal challenge for climbers seeking a straightforward but rewarding adventure near Boulder."
Rising sharply from the rocky base of Upper Dream Canyon, The Candle Stick presents an accessible yet focused traditional climb that catches the eye of climbers seeking a solid single-pitch challenge away from crowded routes. Positioned on the southwest face of a lone pinnacle, this 65-foot line demands steady footwork and confident crack skills, culminating in a tricky move at the capstone summit. The climb threads the heart of the rock’s profile, offering an intimate encounter with Colorado’s rugged downtown Boulder landscape. As you approach, the canyon’s open sky frames the top-out, where the rock leans into the wind and the crux awaits. The crux itself, a subtle but committing sequence just before the summit, tests your technique and composure because the holds become fewer and the protection placements thin.
The climb requires a rack tailored for small stoppers and cams up to size 3.5, with placements that reward patience and precise gear placement. Experienced trad climbers will appreciate the protected nature of this line, while those newer to the style will find it a manageable introduction to solid traditional climbing etiquette and movement. The rock quality is reliable, with sound edges and pockets weaving a natural pathway, though the capstone area demands extra focus due to its variance in texture and angle.
Approaching from Boulder, the hike in Upper Dream Canyon is short but informative, running through open pine and granite boulders that whisper of the rugged terrain beyond the climb itself. Access is best attempted during spring through autumn to avoid icy conditions on the rock, and early starts help beat the afternoon sun that catches the southwest face. The climb’s aspect gives a pleasant mix of sun and shade as the day progresses, making it suitable for cooler days when the granite retains chill.
Preparation for The Candle Stick means bringing the right gear and prepping for fine placements, plus managing your expectations around a route that favors steady, thoughtful climbing over flashier moves. Given its location and moderate rating, this is a route that entices those looking to sharpen their trad climbing fundamentals with a dose of adventure in an uncrowded setting.
For descent, a simple downclimb returns you safely to the base, though caution is required to avoid loose rock near the summit. The surrounding area offers sweeping views of Boulder’s high country, reminding climbers of the expedition intertwined in every step and hold here.
Watch for loose stone near the top-out where rock texture changes; the summit capstone requires careful footwork and precise gear placement to minimize fall risk.
Start early to enjoy cooler rock and avoid the afternoon sun on the southwest face.
Inspect capstone holds carefully—texture and angle can vary sharply near the summit.
Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams and stoppers; large pieces are unnecessary here.
Approach via the short hike through open pine and granite boulders from the trailhead near Boulder.
Equip small stoppers and cams up to size 3.5 to protect the entire route, paying close attention to the crux area where placements get sparse but crucial.
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