"The 5.10 at Ivory Tower on Mount Nemo is a lively sport climb with a welcoming 5.6 rating, bolted for consistent protection. Its approachable grade and accessible location make it a perfect stop for climbers eager to enjoy a brief but satisfying challenge."
The 5.10 at Ivory Tower offers an inviting climb along the limestone cliffs of Mount Nemo, a standout feature within Ontario's southern bouldering and rock climbing scene. Positioned about 30 meters to the right of marker '19', this single-pitch route stretches roughly 45 feet and delivers a rewarding experience that balances lighthearted fun with steady sport climbing. Its eight strategically placed bolts offer confident protection, appealing to climbers looking for a reliable line that won't leave them guessing about gear placements.
This route’s name springs from the amusing tall tales of the first ascensionist, who humorously exaggerated the difficulty grade during early climbs—making the whole experience feel less like a trial and more like a shared story between climb partners. While officially rated 5.6, the grade carries a gentle warming-up vibe rather than a stiff challenge. The final move before the anchor wrap leans toward 5.7 if taken direct, but a subtle detour to the left eases the difficulty, inviting a smooth finish.
The limestone here carries a clean, textured feel beneath fingertips, with the route’s shape encouraging fluid movement across well-bolted protection. The wrap station featuring a Fixe anchor provides a secure belay spot, easing descent logistics and adding to the route’s overall friendliness. Mount Nemo itself is known for its accessible climbing areas combined with a quiet forest drift, where the fresh aromas of the outdoors mingle with the steady cadence of nearby wildlife.
Approaching the route is a straightforward venture through maintained trails that wind across mixed terrain, capturing patches of sun and shade throughout the day. This coloration of light plays into the ideal climbing windows found in spring through fall, when temperatures remain comfortable and conditions are generally dry.
Practical gear choices here revolve around sport climbing equipment—quickdraws fit the fixed bolt spacing and a standard climbing shoe set will handle the moderate holds well. The anchor is fixed, so there’s no need for extensive traditional gear. While the route is welcoming to intermediate climbers, slight care is advised near the anchor’s final moves where options influence the perceived steepness.
Whether you’re stopping by for a quick warm-up or scouting routes that blend lightheartedness with technical steadiness, The 5.10 at Ivory Tower promises a climb that’s straightforward but engaging, wrapped in the easy charm of Southern Ontario’s rock offerings. Plan your visit for the shoulder seasons to enjoy mild weather and fewer crowds, and keep an eye out for the route’s playful history lurking in every handhold.
Despite its easy grade and secure bolts, be mindful of the anchor area where the moves can shift in difficulty. Maintain cautious footing on the final section and avoid direct approaches in wet or damp conditions, as limestone can become slippery. Also, the approach trail can be uneven in places—good shoes and steady footing are recommended.
Arrive early to avoid afternoon heat, as the wall faces variable sun and shade throughout the day.
Stick to the left variation on the last moves to keep the climb comfortable and prevent a sudden grade bump.
Bring an extra set of quickdraws; the bolt spacing encourages clipping confidence but quickdraw prep smooths your lead.
Check local climbing updates—seasonal closures may affect access during springtime raptor nesting periods.
A well-bolted route requiring a standard sport rack with quickdraws and climbing shoes suited for moderate limestone holds. The Fixe anchor wrap station secures safe top-rope setup or lowering.
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