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Texas Princess Trad Climb at LingHall Wall

Welsford, Canada
trad
ringlock crack
short pitch
flake
tree anchor
loose rock
5.9
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Texas Princess
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Texas Princess is a focused 30-foot trad climb tackling a loose flake and a narrow ringlock crack that demands precise jamming. Perfect for climbers seeking a challenging but short pitch in the rugged Eagle Rock area near Welsford."

Texas Princess Trad Climb at LingHall Wall

Rising sharply on the Left Side of Eagle Rock at LingHall Wall, Texas Princess offers an engaging trad climb that rewards persistence and careful footwork. This single-pitch route, measuring roughly 30 feet, weaves through a loose-looking flake before connecting with a narrow crack that demands precise jamming technique. For the first 10 feet, the rock challenges your grip and balance with an unpredictable surface, keeping your attention sharp. Past this initial section, the climb opens into a tight ringlock crack that requires patience and careful hand placement to navigate safely. While the crack’s shape challenges even experienced climbers with its tricky jams, it culminates on a solid ledge where you can pause and appreciate the rugged surroundings.

The finish leads slightly left to a sturdy natural anchor perched near a tree, making the descent straightforward. The rock’s condition here urges climbers to adopt an attentive approach; loose flakes ask for delicate handling, and protection placements require a thoughtfully sized rack. Texas Princess is a compact but rewarding route on Eagle Rock that blends the excitement of crack climbing with the practical demands of traditional protection. It’s a climb well suited for those seeking a concise, hands-on adventure in a lesser-traveled corner of New Brunswick.

Plan your ascent with a focus on steady gear management and steady movements. The approach is manageable, but climbers will appreciate solid footwear capable of handling textured rock and some scruffy terrain on arrival. Because the area is subject to seasonal moisture, aim for dry days to ensure the best friction on your holds. Texas Princess is a promising option for climbers learning polished crack skills or for seasoned adventurers looking to add a sharp 5.9 trad pitch to their list in the Welsford area.

This route’s finger-lock style and subtle transitions place it firmly among the practical yet rewarding climbs of LingHall’s Left Side. Its lean length and moderate grade make it accessible, but the tricky jam placements add enough challenge to keep the ascent engaging without overwhelming newer trad climbers. Texas Princess invites climbers to meet the rock on tactful terms and trust their gear and judgement as they move upward.

Climber Safety

The initial flake section features unstable rock; carefully test holds and avoid weighted commitments until certain. Protection placements require attention—avoid rushing spot placements where the rock feels suspect. Always rappel or walk off via anchor tree after the ledge.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Wear sticky-soled shoes for better grip on flaky rock.

Test all handholds cautiously, especially around loose flakes.

Dry conditions are best to ensure secure jams in the crack.

Approach by marked trail to Eagle Rock; allow 20-30 minutes from parking.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Texas Princess balances moderate technical difficulty with a restrictive crack that bumps the effort above a casual climb. While some may find the grade slightly soft, the tricky jams and loose surface add convincing challenge. Compared to other Welsford trad climbs, it sits comfortably as a solid test of crack technique without over-reliance on brute strength.

Gear Requirements

Carry a full trad rack with a focus on small to medium cams to protect the tricky ringlock crack and secure placements before the flake section.

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Tags

trad
ringlock crack
short pitch
flake
tree anchor
loose rock
5.9