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Take the Power Back: A Solid Trad Climb in Upper Dream Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
hand crack
single pitch
trad
5.9-
bolt start
anchors
Colorado climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Take the Power Back
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Take the Power Back offers a focused trad climbing experience in Boulder’s Upper Dream Canyon, combining accessible 5.9- moves with reliable protection and a single pitch that invites both new and experienced trad climbers to test their skills."

Take the Power Back: A Solid Trad Climb in Upper Dream Canyon

Take the Power Back offers a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to trad climbing in Colorado’s Boulder region. Situated just right of the popular Killing in the Name route, this single-pitch climb delivers a 5.9- challenge that balances accessible difficulty with engaging moves. It’s a dependable choice for those looking to sharpen their trad skills on hand- and finger-sized gear in a setting that feels alive with rocky character and crisp mountain air.

From the moment you step onto the approach trail in Upper Dream Canyon, the surrounding cliffs invite a grounded focus. The canyon’s walls rise sharply overhead, their textured faces bearing the marks of age and weather—perfect for those ready to apply precise placements and controlled movement. Unlike routes that overreach in complexity, Take the Power Back meets you with a clear, well-protected line that demands attention but rewards with smooth progress.

Protection is well thought out here. A single set of finger- and hand-sized gear covers the protections needed for the climb, supplemented by a fixed bolt near the base and solid anchors at the summit. This means you can pack light but smart, avoiding excess weight while feeling secure throughout the ascent. The rock quality is solid, with minimal loose debris, which makes gear placements confident and stable.

The climb’s length and single pitch make it an ideal afternoon venture after exploring the broader Lost Angel area. The approach is accessible, with a short walk that sets you squarely in the midst of Boulder’s distinct sandstone climbing spots. The latitude and longitude coordinates at 40.0089, -105.41 place this route precisely within the Upper Dream Canyon sector, a quiet pocket favored by local climbers for its consistent rock and manageable exposure.

For anyone planning a visit, timing is fairly flexible—this route handles a broad season range, though spring and fall offer cooler temperatures that minimize sweat and maximize grip. The wall faces east-facing angles, so morning climbs can catch the sun gently, easing you into the day, while afternoons tend to cool off under tree shade nearby. This balance helps maintain comfort during summer’s warmer spells.

Once on the top, take a moment to appreciate the canyon’s open horizon and listen to the natural voices of wind against stone and intermittent bird calls. The descent is straightforward, requiring a single rappel or a careful downclimb back to the base—keeping an eye on loose gravel at the landing zone is advised.

Local beta emphasizes steady movement and deliberate gear placements. Avoid rush—each finger slot and hand crack is an opportunity to verify security. Even with a modest 5.9- grade, there’s a subtle crux mid-route that asks for composure rather than raw strength. Comparatively, it matches the challenge of Killing in the Name but feels slightly more approachable for climbers new to the grade.

In summary, Take the Power Back stands out as a balanced trad route that delivers meaningful engagement without overwhelming complexity. The combination of accessible protection, manageable length, and the quiet beauty of Upper Dream Canyon makes it both a practical and inspiring climb for those visiting Boulder’s climbing edges.

Climber Safety

Be cautious near the anchors and rappel landing; although the rock is generally solid, scattered loose gravel can pose a slipping risk. Always double-check gear placements, even on easier sections, for added security.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via a short, well-marked trail with firm footing.

Bring hand- and finger-sized cams for the best protection fit.

Best climbed in cooler months—spring and fall offer ideal conditions.

Rappel carefully and watch for loose rock at the descent landing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grading on this climb feels true to its difficulty, with a crux that requires focused technique rather than brute power. Compared to nearby Killing in the Name, it’s slightly more accessible but still offers a solid challenge for trad climbers looking to push into the 5.9 range confidently.

Gear Requirements

A single set of finger- and hand-sized protection is sufficient, complemented by a fixed bolt low on the route and reliable anchors at the top. This allows for light packing and straightforward placements.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
single pitch
trad
5.9-
bolt start
anchors
Colorado climbing