HomeClimbingTail Gate Party

Tail Gate Party: A Compact Sport Climb on Phantom Canyon’s Edge

Canon City, Colorado United States
bouldery start
high first bolt
clean rock
roadside access
short climb
sport climbing
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Tail Gate Party
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tail Gate Party delivers a tight, bouldery introduction to sport climbing on Phantom Canyon’s roadside cliffs. Its high first bolt demands a stick clip, while the clean rock and varied holds offer a brief but satisfying challenge perfect for quick sessions or warm-ups."

Tail Gate Party: A Compact Sport Climb on Phantom Canyon’s Edge

Tail Gate Party offers a brief but dynamic introduction to sport climbing on the fringes of Phantom Canyon near Canon City, Colorado. The route opens with a challenging bouldery move that immediately tests your precision and power, with the first bolt positioned high above, encouraging prudence and smooth execution. A stick clip is highly advised to safely clip the initial bolt and avoid a potentially risky fall.

The climb follows clean, solid rock just to the right of a prominent corner, where the textured surface invites confident footwork and controlled hand placements. Though the route is short—only about 60 feet—the technical crux demands focus, particularly as you navigate around some large blocks within the corner section that may feel unsettled underfoot. This subtle instability adds an element of caution without dominating the climb.

As you approach the top, the line veers right, guiding you towards a secure two-bolt anchor that offers reliable protection after a handful of well-spaced bolts. The anchor area provides room to organize gear and prepare for a safe descent. Tail Gate Party’s one-pitch length makes it well-suited for climbers looking to warm up, practice sport clipping, or enjoy a quick, engaging challenge.

The approach is straightforward, just off the roadside along Phantom Canyon Road, which means less time hiking and more time climbing. The rock’s moderate angle and quality make it a comfortable route for climbers refining their technique or those seeking an accessible adventure without the commitment of longer climbs.

Phantom Canyon itself is known for its dramatic cliffs and varied climbing options, but Tail Gate Party stands out for its approachability and the unique character imparted by its bouldery start. The sun exposure is moderate during the late morning and early afternoon, so timing your climb to avoid peak heat or intense midday sun is recommended, especially during summer months.

In preparation, climbers should bring a stick clip, since the high first bolt demands precision and safety. Shoes with good edging capability and chalk for grip will prove beneficial. While the route attracts a small but loyal following, it’s wise to inspect the corner’s blocks carefully and test their stability as you ascend. Bolts and anchors are reliable, but awareness of your surroundings remains key.

Tail Gate Party exemplifies a climb that balances technical moves with manageable risks, perfect for climbers seeking to blend focused effort with stunning canyon surroundings. Whether you’re here for an afternoon session or as part of a broader climbing mission in the Colorado Canyonlands, this route offers a neat package of challenge and charm just minutes from the roadside.

Climber Safety

Approach with caution near the large blocks in the corner, as some may shift under pressure. The high first bolt requires a stick clip to mitigate the risk of a dangerous fall. Ensure a solid belay setup at the two-bolt anchor for a secure descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Use a stick clip to safely reach the high first bolt and avoid risky falls.

Inspect and test large blocks in the corner carefully—they may be loose.

Aim for late morning or early afternoon climbs to balance sun exposure.

Approach directly from Phantom Canyon Road—minimal hiking involved.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8-, Tail Gate Party sits on the easier end of the spectrum but demands attention due to its high first bolt and loose blocks near the corner. The grade feels fairly accurate; while the moves aren't sustained, the crux lies in the start's power and clipping. For local climbers, it offers a comfortable yet technical challenge akin to other approachable routes in Phantom Canyon.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by six bolts ascending the line, capped with a two-bolt anchor. Given the high first bolt, bringing a stick clip is essential to safely start the climb. No additional traditional gear placements are necessary.

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Tags

bouldery start
high first bolt
clean rock
roadside access
short climb
sport climbing