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Tabarnaco at Chanchullo: A Sharply Technical Sport Climb in Central Mexico

Chontalcoatlan, Mexico
roof
technical climbing
bolo tech
dihedral
shared anchors
single pitch
Kaliman connection
Length: 85 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Tabarnaco
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tabarnaco offers a striking blend of steep, physical climbing and technical finesse in a quiet section of Central Mexico. With powerful roof pulls, tricky cruxes, and a smooth finish that merges into the fun "Kaliman" route, it’s both a challenge and a reward for sport climbers ready to test their mettle."

Tabarnaco at Chanchullo: A Sharply Technical Sport Climb in Central Mexico

At the heart of Central Mexico’s climbing scene lies Tabarnaco, a challenging 85-foot sport route in the rugged zone of Chanchullo, within the Chontalcoatlan area. This route offers an assertive blend of physicality and finesse, delivering a climb that demands both strength and precision. From the very first moves, climbers face steep, dynamic pulls on solid holds that challenge your power and commitment as you surmount a low roof. The early section quickly sorts out the well-prepared from the tentative, rewarding those ready to engage with its demanding start.

After conquering the roof, Tabarnaco grants a welcomed breather on a secure rest stance, allowing you to recalibrate before shifting gears. The climb transitions into a more technical phase that requires sharp footwork and deliberate movement, guiding you into a clean dihedral. This section remains engaging without overwhelming, a subtle dance of balance and tension that sets the tone for the finale.

Once perched in the dihedral, rest and regroup for the final push—a tricky sequence navigating the last roof that tests endurance and composure. The route doesn’t just end abruptly; it eases into the upper section known as "Kaliman," where the climbing relaxes into a more playful rhythm. This transition invites climbers to flow with fluidity, savoring the finish after the earlier intensity.

Protection is bolted throughout and designed to be clipped in advance with a stickclip, especially important given the powerful moves off the start. Shared anchors with Kaliman simplify the descent and foster a sense of connection between these two routes. The rock itself presents consistent friction with solid holds, but climbers should prepare for occasional crimpy, technical grips demanding active hand and foot engagement.

Access to Tabarnaco is straightforward yet set in a remote, less-traveled sector of Chanchullo, surrounded by dry forest and rough scrub. The approach involves a moderate hike on uneven terrain through sun-exposed slopes with sparse shade, making early starts or late afternoon sessions optimal in the warmer months. GPS coordinates pinpoint this hidden gem at latitude 18.64807 and longitude -99.52389, guiding adventurers directly to the base.

Local wisdom encourages climbers to check gear thoroughly and prepare for warm conditions—ample water and sun protection are essentials. Footwear with sticky rubber and precision edging will greatly assist on the thin technical moves and roof sections. Given the route’s bold sequences and the physical demand, climbers should be comfortable pushing at the 5.11d level, confident in managing pump and technique alike.

In essence, Tabarnaco is a compact yet rewarding endeavor that delivers a concentrated dose of technical sport climbing. It invites those hungry for a route that mixes power, skill, and flow within a quiet Mexican climbing enclave. The final descent is a rappel from shared anchors, and a cautious eye towards rock stability and weather conditions ensures a safe exit. For climbers seeking a sharp, focused route with clear beta and solid protection, Tabarnaco stands as an essential stop on Mexico’s climbing map.

Climber Safety

The initial roof requires focused clipping with a stickclip to prevent dangerous swings. Rock quality is solid but watch carefully for loose holds near the finishes. The approach trail features uneven ground and sun exposure, so be prepared for heat and footing challenges.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Bring sun protection and plenty of water for the dry, exposed approach trail.

Use rubber-soled shoes with excellent edging for the technical footholds on the dihedral.

Stickclip the first bolt to avoid swing falls on the steep start.

Plan climbs for early morning or late afternoon to avoid heat and intense sun.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11d, Tabarnaco demands strong finger strength and body tension to surmount its roof sequences, with a technical crux that separates dispatching climbers from those who get pumpy early. Compared to other mid-grade Mexican sport lines, this climb feels appropriately stiff due to its powerful start and precise technical maneuvers later in the dihedral.

Gear Requirements

Fully bolted with fixed anchors shared with Kaliman. A stickclip is recommended to safely approach the initial roof section without dangling on the rope.

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Tags

roof
technical climbing
bolo tech
dihedral
shared anchors
single pitch
Kaliman connection